Expert Interview: Yigit Pura

Behind the Pastry Chef

What were your favorite desserts growing up?
As a kid in Turkey I used to love a dessert called "Kazan Dibi," which in essence is a thick cooked custard; it is then almost burnt with sugar in a skillet, so when it's unmolded it's creamy, sweet and bitter. So delicious.

When did you decide you wanted to be a pastry chef?
I've been in the kitchen since I was four years old. I come from a large family that loves to cook and eat, so food has always been a part of my backbone.

Where and when did your cooking career begin?
Professionally I started cooking when I was 19, at a three-star restaurant in San Francisco called The Meetinghouse, which was lovely. That's where I first started getting my hands into pastry. When I moved to New York City my chef at the Four Seasons Hotel, Luis Robledo-Richards, was definitely my first true mentor in the pastry kitchen.

If you didn't become a pastry chef, what would you be?
I really feel very lucky. Being a pastry chef comes very naturally to me, and I've known this from a very young age. If I had to pick another profession, I think I'd be a bee keeper and cultivate gourmet honey.

Who/what has shaped your baking the most over the years?
I think becoming a chef is a lot like growing up. Your first mentors will shape you the strongest; then as you get further into it you just take the small bits of good advice from everything else you see. But working at Daniel as a Pastry Sous Chef at such a young age, I really developed a strict sense of work ethic and discipline, as well as a respect and love for history and technique of pastry.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A small off-set spatula is my number one weapon. I find the constant development of new tools and equipment very exciting. I do love all the new intricate silicone molds and I'm obsessed with the new metallic "folding" transfer sheets.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Tonka Beans, Organic Rose Petals, Yuzu Salt, Chinese Wu Long Red Fruit Tea, to name just a few (but my secret cabinet is extensive).

What are some recent dessert trends that you have noticed?
Molecular gastronomy. I think it's brilliant to be able to manipulate food into such dream-like states. However, I think when taking this approach, there still has to be a basis of classical technique and a recognizable dessert in the end. Otherwise it's like trying to put a roof on a house without a foundation.

What was the most challenging dessert you had to make? Why?
When I worked at Daniel, we once had to make a Croquembouche for a private wedding for 200 people it the Hamptons in middle of August. As you can imagine, with the humidity in New York at that time, it was an absolute nightmare!

What is your least favorite food?
Crab and lobster. I love seafood, but those two are just off putting for me.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
The single-item bakeshop. There's an explosion of small shops serving just cupcakes, macaroons, cookies, doughnuts, etc. It's nice to see where people's imaginations take them.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Unless I'm having a fabulous dinner at a great restaurant, I really like to keep it simple, humble and full of flavor. I have a really soft spot for good Thai and Indian food. Being from California there really is nothing better than a plate of local seasonally prepared food. Oh, and a place with a smart mixologist is always a plus.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Everywhere! That's what's so exciting. Tropical fruit from Kauai, spices from India, teas from France, flowers from my friend's yard in San Francisco. Inspiration is endless.

What was the most spectacular meal or dessert you have ever had?
This is so hard to choose. But when I worked with Frederic Robert (who is a pastry god), he made the most gorgeous baba au rhum with chantilly cream, fresh fruit, and consomme. It was truly divine. I had four full portions in a row.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
In baking and making desserts, really be patient with yourself, and take the time to understand the recipe and its techniques. Enjoy the process, and make it with love.

What do you eat when you are home?
I try to eat healthy, as at work I'm constantly consuming sugar. Lately I'm obsessed with this mixture from my local co-op which has Himalayan goji berries and Turkish mulberries.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Yigit Pura, Executive Pastry Chef

Yigit Pura

Yigit (pronounced Yeet) began his culinary training in the pastry arts at the age of four in Ankara, Turkey. One of his fondest memories is of his mother making him a big spoon-full of dark caramel. His first job in the United States was in the pastry kitchen at The Meetinghouse, a 3-star San Francisco restaurant, where he worked for two years under chef and mentor Joanna Karlinsky. From The Meetinghouse he went on to work in several other pastry kitchens in San Francisco including Postrio and Gary Danko. Yigit moved to New York City in the Fall of 2003 where he held increasingly responsible positions at the famed Le Cirque 2000 and The 5-star, 5-diamond Four Season Hotel both under Executive Pastry Chef Luis Robledo-Richards. He went on to work at the world famous Restaurant Daniel, as Pastry Sous Chef and Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas as Executive Pastry Chef both under chef/owner Daniel Boulud. Yigit joined Taste Catering and Event Planning as Executive Pastry Chef in the Spring of 2007 and is thrilled to be back in San Francisco and working with such a creative group of people.

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