Expert Interview: Xavier Herit
Behind the Mixologist
When did you decide to become a bartender?
In my very first bartending job, the manager challenged me to find a use for a dozen bottles of Hydromel, a pretty undesirable honey flavored liqueur. I created a cocktail with the Hydromel, Champagne, brandy, grape juice and almond syrup. I really felt I had created something delicious. The case of Hydromel was gone in less than eight weeks. I haven't come across a bottle of the stuff since.
What countries, places and environments inspire your style?
I credit Thierry Hernandez of the bar at the Hotel Plaza Athènèe in Paris for teaching me there is no limit to the creativity you can bring to mixology. I've been influenced by both European and American cocktail making styles. In Europe the cocktails tend to be much sweeter and conceptual. For example, at the Plaza Athènèe we did a lot of thematic work such as edible cocktails in the form of frozen popsicles on a stick flavored like Cosmos or Piña Coladas. Then there was the 3-D with three contrasting layers: solid, liquid and foam. Whereas here in the United States mixologists tend to reach for old school classics and then add their own personal twist.
Since coming to Daniel in New York, I find I'm inspired by our chefs and pastry chefs and the fresh produce, herbs and spices they use. For example, my first taste of fresh bergamote juice came from our pastry chef, Dominique Ansel. It led to my bergamote martini with Grey Goose pear, fresh squeezed bergamote juice, pear vodka and syrup. It has simple, but uncommon and bright flavors. Now I'm making a new cocktail this season, a Cara-cara Pisco. Cara-cara oranges are a cross between the blood orange and the navel orange. I infuse the cocktail with my own homemade lemon thyme syrup.
What is molecular mixology?
It's a relatively new concept in cocktail making inspired by the movement in "molecular gastronomy." The approach has an influence, above all, on the visual and textural aspects of a drink with the use of unexpected ingredients such as gelatine, alginate, and citras of calcium to change the visual and work the textures. Daniel Boulud does not take this kind of approach at all in his cooking, which is more traditional. But he thinks the bar is a great place to experiment and have some fun with these techniques.
Where did you learn how to make molecular cocktails?
I have learned a lot from our pastry chef. Now we are using a lot of the same products. My approach was refined by working with Cointreau. They invited me to a special event introducing their spherification technique they had pioneered vis-a-vis cocktails. Previously it was used mostly by chefs; I was very excited about trying it myself. That's what led to the "Strawberry and Pearls" cocktail I serve at Daniel. People love the magic of tasting strawberry flavored "pearls" of Cointreau that float in the drink and then on your tongue. The pearls are solid, but soft and sensual, and fun to play with in your mouth!
How do you make these "caviar beads" you call "pearls"?
I blend a solution of alginate, citras, Cointreau and strawberry purée and then place it in a syringe. Once a cocktail is ordered I drop "pearls" of the solution into a calcium bath, which causes the sphere to form by calcification. The trick is you must do it just immediately before serving. If made in advance, the flavors will dissipate.
What is your beverage of choice? How do you make it?
My favorites change every season, every time I introduce a new cocktail menu. I like to infuse cocktails with teas, fruit spices, and herbs. Right now I am infusing Cognac with Lapsang Suchong tea, imparting its smoky flavor. It gives it a deep almost whisky-like character. The recipe is based on a classic "Dark and Stormy", but with my own touch. I call mine "Dr. Stormy" in homage to a regular client here in the bar at Daniel. The tableside finishing with the addition of my homemade ginger beer from a beautiful siphon adds a touch of drama and personalization, similar to the way we carve game birds tableside.
Do you drink it alone or have foods you like to pair it with?
I do pair cocktails with food, even tasting menus, but personally I prefer wine with food.
What trends have you been observing in the mixology world?
Reviving the most classic cocktails with a twist, that's what we are seeing a lot of in NYC.
Which tools do you use to create your mixology magic?
Soda siphon, foamer, scale for measuring, magnetic agitator for mixing ingredients and a hand blender
What is your favorite cocktail to make at home?
The bar at Daniel is my home away from home, and this is where I do my mixing.
What is your best advice for someone trying to make cocktails at home?
Making cocktails is not complicated. It's like making a cake. You must follow the recipe and measure carefully. A good cocktail is about balance (acidity, sweetness, dryness, bitterness.) One drop more or less of any ingredient can take a drink in the wrong direction. It is just like life; it is all about balance, you don't want too much excess.
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Expert Profile

Xavier Herit
At age 15 Xavier Herit enrolled in hotel school in Paris, and at 16 was in his first apprenticeship rotating through every department of an 80 room business hotel just outside Paris. But his career choice was really set upon after returning to Paris following a dismal year as a room service waiter at Regent's Park Hilton in London. Back in Paris Xavier spent over a year at the Hotel Plaza Athènèe, where he got his most valuable bartending experience. The hotel's bar had just been voted # 1 in Europe, his next stop was New York. He first went to work as a bar manager at Alain Ducasse's Mix. Just two Years later Xavier landed at Daniel as Head Bartender and is still happily mixing there today.


