Expert Interview: Wylie Dufresne

Chef, WD-50

What were your favorite foods growing up?

Eggs.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?

I had a summer job during college working on the pizza station at Al Forno, Providence, RI. That's when I got bitten.

Where and when did your career in food begin?

I suppose that is when it started (see above answer). But it's hard to say. My father had a sandwich store in Providence, Joe's. I spent a lot of time in that store, perhaps that's technically when it started.


If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?

I always liked the idea of being an athlete, unfortunately I wasn't good enough to be a professional one.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?

It's hard to say who has influenced me the most, I would say it's a myriad number of people. It started with my parents, both of whom have a wonderful and very different aesthetic from each other; they were very encouraging. All of the people I have enjoyed working with have influenced me, starting with Jean-Georges Vongerichten through to my staff who I learn from, particularly from my former and current pastry chef, Sam Mason and Alex Stupak. Both of them have a far more refined eye than I do and I have learned a lot about plating and presentation from them both. And books, my biggest indulgence is cook books.

How would you describe your cuisine? New American with Indian influences?

Modern American.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?

All of the things I mention in the answer to Question Five. I think the fact that we work in a collaborative fashion influences the cuisine greatly. Primarily we are trying to produce food that tastes good, of course. Other considerations are that it looks good on the plate and that the dish as a whole be balanced. Seasonal changes also affect it.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?

Vita-Prep 3, it's the workhorse in our kitchen.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?

I can't pick just one. Part of the pleasure of what we do in kitchens is using new ingredients all the time.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?

Having to throw out all of the food because of a Health Department Inspection that cited us for doing sous vide before we received our final certification. We were subsequently certified, won a Golden Apple, and on our most recent health department visit for sous vide passed with flying colors.

What is your least favorite food?

Tomatoes.

What is your beverage of choice?

I drink a lot of tea at work, Barry's Irish tea. Good strong black tea.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?

We use hydrocolloids and gums in our kitchen. So anyone who is also using them, piques my interest.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Wylie Dufresne, Chef, WD-50

Wylie Dufresne

Wylie Dufresne was born in 1970 in Providence, Rhode Island. In 1977 he moved to New York. In 1992 he completed a B.A. in philosophy at Colby College, Maine.

After college, Wylie enrolled at the French Culinary Institute in New York. After graduation he worked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten from 1994 to 1997. His first chef job was at 71 Clinton Fresh Food on the Lower East Side.

Dufresne opened wd~50 in 2003 on Clinton Street. In 2006, wd~50 received a Michelin Star, which it has retained to date. In 2008 Frank Bruni awarded wd~50 three stars in the New York Times

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