Expert Interview: Tony Mantuano

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Pasta, my Grandmother's gnocchi and potato chips.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I think it was back in 1977 after college. It just came to me that this is what I wanted to do.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
I started off with an apprenticeship under a Swiss-born chef named Kurt Weber in Milwaukee. It was a continental-style restaurant.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
Maybe a musician, I studied music in college.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
I think what really shaped my cooking was living in Italy for a year and working in some great kitchens like Dal Pescatore in Lombardia and Da Romano in Viareggio.

How would you describe your cuisine?
My cooking/Spiaggia's cooking is very much influenced by Italian culture. At Spiaggia, we're inspired by the country and the people of Italy -- and there is no filter through American sensibility. We create foods that have authentic Italian flavors, like you're actually in Italy, with a modern twist.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A mandolin, its great for truffles, garlic, onions, fennel, and more.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Pasta water is great for thickening pasta sauces.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what should I order to eat?
I would say that anything from our wood-roasted oven. I would recommend our scallops. There is very little fat in those dishes and what is missing in fat is made up in flavor from the smokiness of the wood. Our crudo is also a good choice.

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I just did a dinner for the International Olympic Committee Evaluation Commission for the Chicago 2016 Bid. It was challenging as it was a very important dinner that had to impress the members of the evaluation committee, plus some notable Chicago figures. Chicago is up against some other great culinary cities so I had to make sure we were on point. There was a lot of planning involved, but I think it turned out to be a great dinner and great night.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
There was one night at Spiaggia when a grid of the city went black and we lost all our power in the middle of Saturday night service. We lit candles, in the dining room and kitchen, and served food that didn't need cooking. It actually ended up being a very special night and our guests loved it.

What is your least favorite food?
For some reason, and I'm not sure why, I'm not a big fan of mussels, melon and cucumbers.

What is your beverage of choice?
Beer. There is one brand from Cologne, Germany called Kolsch that is a bit hard to find in the U.S., but its really great. When I find it, it's always a nice surprise.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
I've seen more and more chefs use vegetables in desserts.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Usually at home. Paul Kahan's restaurants are great, Publican is delicious. In Chinatown in Chicago I really like going to Lao Sze Chuan and ordering their twice cooked pork.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
It's a bit obvious but Italy!

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
Dinner at El Bulli—the service and food were phenomenal and memorable.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Keep it simple and buy great ingredients at farmers market. Do as little as possible to the food and think of leaving out an ingredient and relying on instinct.

What do you eat when you are home?
Cape Cod potato chips. In the spring/summer we grill a lot on our patio so, chicken, steaks and pork chops with salad can be found on our menus at home. We love to sit outside and just enjoy the weather.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Tony Mantuano, Chef/Partner, Spiaggia

Tony Mantuano

James Beard Award Winner Chef Tony Mantuano is chef/partner of Spiaggia, Chicago's only four-star Italian restaurant, which has remained so for 25 years. Under Mantuano's guidance, Spiaggia received the James Beard Foundation nomination for "Outstanding Restaurant in America" in 2006 and 2007 and "Outstanding Service" in 2008 and 2009. Prior to opening Spiaggia, Mantuano worked in several Michelin starred restaurants in Italy including the three-star Dal Pescatore in Lombardia. Chef Mantuano has co-authored two books with Cathy Mantuano, The Spiaggia Cookbook—Eleganza Italian in Cucina (Chronicle Books) and Wine Bar Food (Clarkson Potter). Mantuano was seen at the 2008 U.S. Open Tennis Championship in Queens, New York, where he operated WINE BAR FOOD, a stand-only wine bar that featured recipes from his latest cookbook. Up next for Mantuano includes celebrating the 25th Anniversary of Spiaggia and the opening of Terzo Piano, an Italian/Mediterranean restaurant, at the new Renzo Piano-designed Modern Wing at the Art Institute of Chicago in May 2009.

Photo courtesy of Jeff Kauck

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