Expert Interview: Ted Breaux

Master Distiller

What was your first experience with absinthe? Was it an enjoyable one?
My first experience with absinthe came about circa late 1993, which consisted of a small 'lab sample' I prepared for research purposes. I don't recall that particular sample being especially enjoyable, but it was enlightening nonetheless. If anything, I quickly came to realize that reproducing this historical spirit with any degree of accuracy wouldn't likely be done from a scant paragraph or two of instruction. Likewise, because I shared the same underexposure to the flavor of anise that is typical of many North American palates, it took me some time to appreciate the flavor profile. One's interpretation of the flavor of anise changes with experience and exposure, just as with other things, such as structured red wines and Scotch whisky for example.

How is absinthe different than other liquors?
Aside from the obvious fact that no other liquor carries the mystique or brings about the same level of intrigue, traditional absinthe is unique in that it is a concentrated herbal mixture that requires bottling at high proof and was never intended to be taken straight. Adding water or otherwise mixing the absinthe has always been the recommended way to consume. The core flavors of any traditional absinthe are green anise, fennel, and grande absinthe, and it was invariably a dry spirit and never bottled with sugar. This renders a true absinthe easily distinguishable from sugary anise liqueurs or pastis. True absinthe, for example, would never be classified as a 'liqueur' in the U.S. system which requires residual sugar for that designation.

What exactly is a master distiller?
I interpret the title of "Master Distiller" appropriate to one who demonstrates a thorough understanding and mastery of the physical science of distillation. I can analogize that title to an advanced degree in art, which affirms the beholder possesses a substantial knowledge of art. But at the same time, I should note that said title makes no guarantee that the beholder is necessarily a great artist.

If you weren't a master distiller, what career path do you think you would have followed?
My career was already in motion at the time I became interested in absinthe. I was building a career as an environmental microbiologist.

If you were going to mix your absinthe with something, what do you prefer?
That really depends upon the style of absinthe and the context. The traditional Franco-Swiss vertes I like best when served traditionally with iced water, although being a more experienced absintheur, I prefer them without sugar. I like the lower proof, clear Swiss styles best with just a good splash of water. As for more herbaceous American offerings, I tend to prefer them in aperitif cocktails.

What are your favorite foods to pair absinthe with?
As an aperitif, absinthe can be paired well with citrusy salads (especially those containing fennel, caraway, dill, and/or cumin), and even seafood. In this context, I feel absinthe functions better as a cocktail enhancement due to its potent strength and flavor. I don't personally tend to consume absinthe in the traditional Franco-Swiss fashion (e.g. straight with ice water) before or during a meal, although absinthe sorbet is a wonderful palate cleanser between courses. As a digestive, a capacity in which it performs very well, I enjoy the powerfully scented flavor as served in the traditional Franco-Swiss style. However, many people who treat absinthe as an aperitif indeed enjoy a traditional absinthe drip even before or during dining. Many restaurants serve it in this manner.

What trends have you been observing in the absinthe world?
Perhaps the most notable trends I am observing is that the consumer education efforts of artisanal distillers and better online resources is beginning to gain some traction, which is timely being that we're seeing some less-than-authentic brands trying to get into the market. In the cocktail world, there are well known and not-so-well-known mixologists finding some very creative ways to create cocktails with genuine absinthe, some based upon the classics and some being entirely nouveau.

What is your least favorite beverage?
I'm a stickler for wholesome, quality ingredients in foods, spirits, and cocktails. My least favorite beverages are those cheap, artificially flavored and colored, syrupy cordials (some of which today are parading themselves as absinthe). I'm just not a fan of oils, sugar and dye.

Are there any special tools and gadgets you like to use to make drinks?
I'm more of a purist when it comes to barware and cocktail service, and serving absinthe is no exception. Perhaps the most important and underrated tools are correct glassware and ice, both of which are catalysts to the overall perception of any drink. I feel the type of glassware and size/texture of ice do far more to influence the experience of any cocktail than do gimmicks, gadgets and theatrics. I have to credit one Mr. Dale DeGroff with bringing that fact to my attention.

What countries, places, and environments inspire your style?
I see my style as being somewhat avant garde, but with traditional roots. Many of the people and places that inspire me have long since passed into the history books, but the time I've invested enveloped within the natural beauty of the Val de Travers in Switzerland, and the historical charm of the Loire in France have contributed much to my cultural education and perceptions. I seem to find ideas in some of the most unlikely of places and at inopportune moments, and/or while in the twilight of consciousness.

What is the most memorable drink you ever had?
I've been fortunate enough to sample some memorable wines and spirits, but the most memorable was sampling a circa 1900 Edouard Pernod 72* absinthe back in 1996. That was a turning point for my understanding and appreciation of true absinthe. At that point, I realized that despite advertising claims to the contrary, nothing on the market at the time even remotely resembled the most famous spirit of the 19th century, and how sad that was for consumers.

What is your best advice for someone trying to make cocktails at home?
Anyone who is serious about crafting cocktails at home should refrain from the convenience of premixes and learn to view mixology like cuisine. If one appreciates the experience and result of cooking from scratch, using wholesome ingredients, than he/she will appreciate the same with crafting cocktails. I suggest getting a good reference, and growing one's own herbs, time and space permitting.

What is the first thing someone learning about absinthe should know?
The first thing one should know is that if he/she is expecting to find something that truly resembles the most famous spirit of the 19th century, it doesn't come from the Czech Republic. Neither will it be found in a bottle of anything tagged by the word "liqueur" on the label, or whose content is described as, "Contains FD&C Yellow, Blue, Certified Color", etc. Where these descriptors are found, the seductive marketing language that follows can be disregarded entirely, as such products are devoid of artisanal quality and authenticity.

Secondly, one should realize that with a few notable exceptions, the market offerings in the U.S. are presently better than what is commonly found in Europe. In Europe, 80- 90% of what claims to be absinthe is amounts to artificially colored and flavored vodka, and carries no value. In the U.S. however, a fair number of the present market offerings are of reasonably good quality, although some big names spending a lot of marketing dollars have put out some shameful imitations nonetheless. Sadly, this is because neither Europe nor the U.S. possesses legal standards for absinthe, and profiteers both large and small have been exploiting that for years. If there is one thing concerning absinthe about which consumers should be aware, it is this. In this regard, I was fortunate to team up with U.S. based Viridian Spirits, an entrepreneurial company founded by people with both a legal background and a background in the US spirits industry. Thanks to their efforts and understanding of the business, one of my creations, Lucid, became the first and remains the most widely sold absinthe in the U.S., allowing Americans, unlike Europeans, to consume a genuine absinthe often as their first taste of the spirit.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Ted Breaux, Master Distiller

Ted Breaux

T. A. Breaux is a native New Orleanian and professional scientist who has dedicated over fifteen years of research toward resolving the scientific and historical mysteries associated with absinthe. Armed with a background in analytical science, he applied sophisticated analytical techniques for the purpose of accurately reconstructing the controversial liquor, which resulted in the creation of his personal "Jade Liqueurs" line of ultra premium absinthes. Additionally, Breaux created the LUCID brand of absinthe for Viridian Spirits, which was the first genuine absinthe to be approved for distribution within the U.S. since 1912. Breaux worked with Viridian Spirits and the U.S. government to achieve this historic milestone ending the 95 year ban on absinthe. His research has been recognized throughout the press and media since 2000. Breaux edited Absinthe, Sip of Seduction: A Contemporary Guide, which serves as a primer into the world of absinthe. Likewise, he co-authored published scientific studies on vintage absinthe (Journal of Agricultural and Food Science). Breaux's reputation for being a staunch promoter of truth and accuracy of information and education in all matters absinthe is surpassed only by his unceasing passion for recreating history through the fine art of absinthe crafting.

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