Expert Interview: Sunitha Ramaiah

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up? Were they Indian?
My favorite foods growing up really showcase my hyphenated identity. Growing up I loved dosas, mangosteens (a fabulous fruit in India), pizza and chilidogs.

How and why did you transition from being a lawyer to a chef/restaurateur?
I come from a family of foodies and fabulous home-cooks. As a corporate attorney specializing in private equity, I learned there was a great deal of venture capital being invested in Indian food franchises, so I decided it was time to start my own franchise. I wanted to marry my knowledge of business with my passion for food.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
The women in my family, from my great-grandmother to my grandmother, mother and aunts. All had a role in developing my palate, as they all had a role in raising me.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
The recipes in the restaurant are based on family recipes. The cooking of everyday India by home cooks are what influences the style of food at Bombay Talkie.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
My spice rack, a cast-iron pot and tava.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
It is remarkable how the use of mustard seeds and curry leaves completely transforms a dish.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Imagine yourself as a customer and give them what you would most desire when dining.

What qualities to you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Passion and pride in their craft and an adventuresome spirit.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Anything cooked in the Tandoor is diet-friendly.

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I created an eight-course menu for a charity dinner in a loft in Soho co-hosted by Padma Lakshmi. We wanted to give everyone a remarkable dining experience. Although we had very discerning palates at the table, it was a great success. Nerve-wracking but wonderful.

What is your least favorite food?
Lima Beans

What is your beverage of choice?
Champagne

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing in Indian cuisine?
The embrace of street foods from all part of India.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
My husband and I are always at restaurants. We love to learn about food from all different countries and try the latest that New York and the world (in our travels) has to offer.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
India first and foremost, but also tapas-style eating of Spain and the aesthetic of Japanese food.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
My parents took me to Bouley (the original on Duane Street) when I graduated from Columbia University Law School to celebrate. That was the most fantastic seafood experience I have ever had.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Don't be afraid of spices. They use of spices can completely transform a dish from something ordinary to something extraordinary without a great deal of work.

What do you eat when you are home?
Most of our time is spent at restaurants, but now that I am teaching, my husband gets to dine on all the recipes I teach at my classes, so right now lots of Indian breads and pickled meats and seafood.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Sunitha Ramaiah, Chef/Owner, Bombay Talkie

Sunitha Ramaiah

Sunitha Ramaiah was raised on her grandfather's tea estate in Ooty in the south of India, where she learned to appreciate the tea and food in her favorite tea shops. After moving to Long Island at age 7 to join her parents who had been studying medicine, she began, with her sister, to study Classical Indian Dancing, and performed around the world for 17 years. Sunitha chose to attend Princeton University's Woodrow Wilson School of International and Public Affairs and then Columbia University Law School, ultimately becoming a corporate attorney. At the same time, she also helped open one of the first galleries in New York that exhibited and sold contemporary Indian Art, A Gallery in Chelsea. However, she always lamented the lack of high quality, accessible, and traditional Indian street food options in New York, and so in 2005, she opened her restaurant, Bombay Talkie. Her goal was to recreate the family meals of her youth and the Indian street food she enjoyed as a child in India while demystifying the cuisine and culture to make it fun for everyone. The restaurant's exciting menu and sleek, sophisticated design give Bombay Talkie an overall festive vibe.

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