Expert Interview: Steven Alexander

Behind the Sommelier

When did you first become interested in wine? When was your first taste? How was the experience?
My first “eye opening” wine experience came while drinking a bottle of 1977 Mastroberardino Taurasi with my friend Chef Morrow at Bacaro restaurant at one of our famous after-service family meals. While most restaurants “phone in” staff meal, we would always sit as a team and have several courses of the same food our guests would eat, cooked by Morrow, and discuss food and wine late into night. Many famous rare vintages of Italian wines were popped, but the 77' Mastroberardino Taurasi produced that “ah-hah ” moment that led to everything else in my career.

Do you have a favorite varietal or region?
This one is easy: the Langhe in Piemonte, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo is the most interesting grape in the world and no one is making more profound wine than the dedicated artisans of the Piemonte. Not only do these winemakers produce amazing wine from the nebbiolo grape, but they are also producing world-class wines from Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc. Name another wine region that does all of that as well as making great Champagne- method sparking wine.

If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
Tequilla or Mezcal, neat. My favorites are the Del Maguey single village Mezcals and El Tesoro Aniversario Extra Anejo. Also, grappa of course, of which I always keep a bottle of Enrico Berta's magical elixir close by.

What's your least favorite drink?
Anything made with wood-chips, manufactured enzymes, Frankenstein-yeasts, xanthium gum or a marketing plan as their principle artistic inspiration. I abhor manipulated wines and avoid them at all costs.

In your opinion, which country, other than the U.S., makes the best wine? Why?
Also easy: Italy, then France. Almost everyone loves Italian wine, you have to admit. The Italians make every conceivable style of wine well in one region or another from a plethora of native and imported varietals. The only style of wine that they are not masters of is off-dry Riesling, but we have Germany for that, now don't we? Did I mention that Barolo is the most profound wine region in the world? And don't even get me started on the Collio in Friuli Venezia-Giulia.

What are your thoughts on recent trends within the industry?
Trends are boring, people always return to the classics. It took us half a century to realize that “classic cocktails” are the way to go, the same will hopefully hold true in the wine business. Less is more, and in that respect, one should always turn to the simplicity of the past, which for me always holds the answers.

What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?
Like most things in modern life, you have to be able to see past the marketing. Follow the works of the great masters and their disciples in each region the same way you would learn about your favorite musical genre, author, fashion label or artist. For me, collecting wine is a lot like collecting music. You have the classics and their contemporaries and then those who were influenced by their style. There is a linear nature to the influence that is passed down from one artist to another. Wine is the same: once you learn the reference points it is easy to understand the genre.

What are some of your favorite food and wine pairings?
Highlights from my pairings at Spiaggia include: Movia's “Lunar” Ribolla Gialla from Slovenia with Nantucket Bay oysters (heavenly), Bruna's Pigato from Liguria with sea-urchin risotto, Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco with honey lacquered duck breast, Vietti's Scarrone Vigne Vecchia Barbera d' Alba with veal filled agnolotti del plin and Birrifcio Troll's “Shangrila” spiced Ale from Piemonte with Raschera cheese from the Alta Monferrato.


Do you think any rules should be adhered to when pairing?
No, rules teach you not to think for yourself and trust your own palate. You should distrust any pundit who tells you that they have the 'perfect pairing' for a particular situation. When you understand the interplay of elements of taste, one is free to play jazz, and that is when things become truly interesting.

What wines should no home be without?
Champagne and chardonnay. Really good chardonnay, and by that I mean white Burgundy. It's like good olive oil, you have to have it in your pantry.

What are your three best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
One: If you are trying to understand a particular wine region, you have to have focus and dedication. Pick up a book about the region and find out who the notable producers are in the price category you can afford. Drink lots of them. Repeat.
Two: Think for yourself. Wine is a language which is learned by your palate just as music is read by a musician. It takes time and lots of bottles to begin to “read ” it. Develop your appreciation by using everything you already have: your mind, palate and good, common sense.
Three: Have fun! That's the whole point! Love the life that you live and share every moment with those who love you. Don't make wine into a chore like shopping for new car tires. For me, it's all about family, sharing and creating beautiful moments in our lives for those we love. La vita è bella.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Steven Alexander, Sommelier,Spiaggia and Cafè Spiaggia

Steven Alexander

Steven joined Spiaggia, Chicago's only four star Italian restaurant, as Wine Director in January of 2007. Under Chef Tony Mantuano, Spiaggia has been nominated for the James Beard Outstanding Service Award 2007 and 2008 and Outstanding Restaurant in America 2007 and 2010.
Under Alexander, the prolific Spiaggia wine program is a reference point for Italian wine in the US. Alexander has utilized over ten years of Italian wine expertise and travels in Italy, as well as Spiaggia's twenty six years of relationships with Italy's most important wine families, to introduce many selections for the first time outside of Italy.
In addition to his cutting edge work with emerging and established Italian wine regions, Alexander is a pioneer in the Italian craft beer movement, expanding his vision to include artisan beer from over half of Italy's regions. With a strong emphasis on healthy, organic beverages, Alexander is also a champion of sustainable agriculture and natural winemaking.
His first job as sommelier was under the prolific Chef Thad Morrow at the nationally acclaimed Bacaro, an intimate Italian wine bar and restaurant in Champaign, Illinois where Alexander authored his first influential regional Italian wine program.
Alexander also gained valuable as an Italian wine buyer and educator for the famed Sam's Wines and Spirits in Chicago, then the largest, most comprehensive Italian wine department in the US.
Alexander has also held posts the European Portfolio Manager for a Miami based wine importer, as well as a sommelier at Chicago's avant-garde restaurant Moto.
As an Italian wine expert and writer, Alexander is a contributor to Wine and Spirits Magazine, Wine Spectator, La Cucina Italiana, Chicago Magazine, CS, Chicago Tribune and is quoted in various online publications.
Alexander calls his philosophy on wine classic, believing firmly that wine should speak of its place; and that a well-chosen wine menu will communicate the history of each viticultural region through the produce of its most talented artisans.

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