Expert Interview: Sébastien Rouxel

Behind the Pastry Chef

What were your favorite desserts growing up?
I have a great memory eating the pastries from my hometown pastry shop. On Wednesdays (we had no school then), my grandmother use to bring my brothers, sister and I some freshly baked viennoiseries and bread and leave them by the kitchen window for us when we woke up. The aroma and taste was memorable. Also, the same pastry shop had great pastries like fraisier, tarte tropezienne, flan pâtissier aux pruneaux and tarte aux fraises.

Where and when did your cooking career begin?
My aunt had a small local restaurant and I used to go there and help her during school breaks to make some extra money. I enjoyed myself there and worked every station from the dishwasher to the bartender to prepping and serving the food.

When the time came along, I started my apprenticeship in a one-starred Michelin restaurant as a line cook. During the summer, the owner asked me if I could help the pastry department for a few weeks to help open a retail pastry shop/Salon de Thé adjacent to the restaurant. I said it was no problem and went for it. I really enjoyed myself and loved the craft, the science, precision and techniques. I asked to stay there for the next 2 years.

If you didn’t become a pastry chef, what would you be?
I would probably be a motorcycle police officer, but would also love to be a drummer in a rock band.

Who/what has shaped your baking the most over the years?
I have been inspired by reputable establishments of Relais and Chateaux, Fauchon, Ladurée, Pierre Hermé and Guy Martin.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Weapons? Well if I’m doing plated desserts my silver spoons, and if not then a good scale.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
I don’t like desserts or pastries that are too sweet so I’m always looking to balance my food with something sour, acidic or salty.

What are some recent dessert trends that you have noticed?
After the wave of progressive and molecular gastronomy, it seems that the guests are more interested or returning to casual and comfort food.

What was the most challenging dessert you had to make? Why?
I would say at the time when I took my Brevet Technique Des Métiers test. I had to prep and serve a display for 25 people that included savory and sweet canapés, breakfast items, sugar and chocolate show pieces, candy/chocolates, ice cream, cake and ice carvings in less than two days with one apprentice I had never met before. I did manage to pass the test though.

What is your least favorite food?
I’m willing to try anything, but I don’t particularly enjoy very spicy food and I probably don’t eat enough fruits and vegetables.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Like I said above, it seems that casual dinning is back. I would love to eat at Noma in Copenhagen. As far as pastries, it looks like that macarons are the new cupcakes.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
When I go out, my wife and I enjoy very good sushi restaurants. The next restaurant on my list is Italian: Marea. One of my old employees is the pastry chef there.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
I’m interested in every country’s specialties and culture, but I’m still inspired by my French training. I like to use traditional techniques with unusual flavor combinations with a modern twist to it.

What was the most spectacular meal or dessert you have ever had?
I've had quite a few memorable meals in my career, here are few: The French Laundry, Le Bernadin, Daniel Boulud, Sushi Yasuda and Blue Ribbon Sushi.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Cooking at home should be pleasurable, so make sure to cook something you enjoy and have a glass of wine or cocktail while doing it.

What do you eat when you are home?
I love to grill steak (rib eye preferably during the summer), and I love braised meat during the winter time.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Sébastien Rouxel, Executive Pastry Chef, Thomas Keller Restaurant Group

Sébastien Rouxel

Sébastien Rouxel serves as executive pastry chef for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, overseeing all aspects of the pastry department for the group’s eight establishments; The French Laundry, Per Se and Ad Hoc, as well as the Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery outposts in Yountville, Las Vegas and New York City.

Rouxel joined the organization in 1999 as pastry chef at The French Laundry in Yountville, California, where he quickly became known for creating dessert menus with unusual flavor combinations designed to perfectly complement Keller’s distinctive cuisine. Rouxel relocated to New York City for the opening of Per Se in 2004, and was tapped once again for the opening of Bouchon Bakery New York city in 2006.

Rouxel grew up in the Loire Valley of France, and began his culinary education at a very early age. At the young age of 16, he was in training as a pre-apprentice savory cook at Les Jardins de la Forge, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Champtoceaux, France. Realizing that patisserie was his true passion, Rouxel took an internship at Le Peché Mignon in Nantes, where he experienced two years of intensive training, and earned his Mastery Diploma.

By age 20, Rouxel was appointed pastry chef at the Mess de L'Elysée, the house of the President of France, and afterwards, went on to become pastry chef at the two-star Michelin restaurant Le Grand Véfour in Paris. In 1996, Rouxel came to the United States and worked at L'Orangerie Restaurant in Los Angeles for one year and at Luètce in New York for two years before beginning his long-standing culinary relationship with Thomas Keller. In 2005, he was named a Rising Star Chef by Star Chefs Magazine.

In 2006 and again in 2008, Pastry Art and Design Magazine declared him one of the Top Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America.

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