Expert Interview: Rohini Dey

Behind the Expert

What were your favorite foods growing up? Were they Indian?
As a kid growing up in India I had an unusual culinary background. My dad was an Air force pilot and we moved to over ten different parts of India so I got to experience an amazing variety. From Kashmiri, to Andhra, Bengali, Maharastrian, north Indian Mughlai, and Kerala culinary fare. My Mom was always experimenting so I was the rare kid who had spaghetti or pork chops or scones in my lunch box. I'm pretty sure this shaped a lot of my passion for food. Street Indian (chaats, frankies, kababs, kathi rolls, dosas, any junk snacks -- samosas, pakoras), Indian sweets and Indian-Chinese were my favorite foods as a kid.

When did you decide you wanted to be a restaurateur? From McKinsey to masalas, how did you do it?
It's a long and convoluted journey, I'm pretty baffled but delighted with where I am. Grew up as a 12 year old yearning to work at The World Bank, did a Masters in Economics and came to the US for a Ph.D. Did work at the Bank and lived my dream. Then evolved to management consulting at McKinsey working across strategic issues across a spectrum of industries. Learned amazing skills and built up invaluable networks -- nothing directly related to restaurants (other than dining out 4 days a week on the road), but the core related to business building. I was always dismayed by the paucity of fine dining in the Indian space in the US, the formulaic execution of the menu or ambiance, or the dumbing down of our flavors. Ire related to this void, a passion for dining, and the desire to go entrepreneurial converged in the birth of Vermilion!

What influences the menu at your restaurant?
The concept (contemporary Indian-Latin), so some dishes had been on my business plan when Vermilion was a glimmer of an idea (tandoori skirt steak, tamarind ribs). My travels -- the Brazilian Caldeirada (seafood stew spiked with coconut mild and our spice) or the Miris Sri Lankan fish (fell in love with this in Sri Lanka and Maneet figured it out). Maneet and my research, her execution and subsequent testing and tweaking. We also have a "heat" section of authentic Indian fare relating to our childhood, currently "dhaba" (Indian truckstop) inspired.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Hiing (asafetida) and curry leaf. Curry leaf is one of my favorite herbs and it's virtually unknown -- have vivid memories of going through forests of this elephant back in India. Hiing is this strange nasty smelling spice that morphs instantly when you roast or sauté it -- earthy and rich, deeply aromatic -- my analogy would be the essence of truffles in France. With mustard seed and red whole chili, this is a classic south Indian deadly seasoning for vegetables, meats and rice dishes. Very simple, yet aromatic and layers of flavor.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Guiding our guests intelligently around the menu, especially given the complexity of our cuisine. It kills me when servers plunge into their favorites or a monolog at opening. I can see eyes glazing over and you've lost a valuable opportunity to interact, elicit information on guest preferences, and make it a superlative experience.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
If you're going the high protein route, any of the amazing succulent hot of the tandoor kababs or steaks -- lean and low fat and yet amazingly succulent because of the marination and spices. The Sri Lankan whole fish is baked and a fantastic low fat meal. If you're going high on vegetables instead, our vegetarian adapation menu (over 20 items) most of which do without heavy creams, sauces or wines. I think we're an amazing find for this niche of diners. The best way to go is to try our 10 elements prix-fixes: seared (meats), the deep (seafood), green (vegetarian).

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
Having my baby 3 weeks before opening Vermilion, she came a month early -- it was my first opening, definitely disaster. I do not counsel this strategy. I'm an optimist and believe everything can be worked through...what doesn't kill you...

What is your least favorite food?
Anything flavorless/bland.

What is your beverage of choice?
I'm biased but I think Vermilion has killer "herb & spice" cocktails -- love our "pear lime chili" cocktail and the pani puri margartita. With food, I love a good Rosé. It's effervescent, celebratory, and with the right acidity can be an amazing accompaniment to our flavors. Combines the best of wines and beers as an accompaniment.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing in Indian cuisine?
The most exciting aspect is the emergence of the independent dining restaurant. When I left fine dining was dominated by Five Star hotels because of highly restrictive liquor licensing policies (other than in Bombay and Bangalore). That's changing, thank God! With the flourishing middle class and much more spend, eating out has surged at every level. Many more international restaurants (beyond the classic "continental" fare), a continuation and increased appreciation of regional Indian, but the most culinary action is happening on the streets. It's heady to experience.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
Breakfast in Sri Lanka -- rich sweet tropical fruits, fresh crisp "appam" (rice crepe bowl) with an egg cracked into it, myriad of sambals with fish base, rice pudding...just heavenly.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Rohini Dey, Restaurateur, Vermilion

Rohini Dey

Rohini founded the Vermilion indian-latin concept and has executed two restaurants in Chicago and New York city. This spans the gamut of entrepreneurial activities - including the business plan and concept, raising finances, location, legalities and permits, designing the interior, construction, building her team, leading the menu design, sourcing, marketing and the launch. As owner, Rohini continues to oversee all aspects of operations and stays deeply involved in the evolution, operation and growth of both her restaurants. By placing a contemporary spin on Indian cuisine and pioneering an entirely new melding with latin influences, Dey's culinary vision pivots around a provocative innovation based on geographical and historical cross-influences. Since inception, Vermilion has been acclaimed as "Best New Restaurant" by Chicago Magazine, Travel & Leisure, Town & Country, USA Today, Bon Appetit, Wine Enthusiast, 3 stars Vetel/Tribune. For it's pioneering cuisine, women-led team, and urbane spin on India, Vermilion has also been featured in Gourmet, The Financial Times, Oprah Magazine, Fortune, FSB, Business Week, Esquire, Crain's Business, Sante, Shelter, Chicago Tribune, Wall Street Journal, New York Times, BBC World among others.

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