Expert Interview: Roger Kugler

Behind the Sommelier

When did you begin to appreciate wine?

We had vines on our family farm that my great grandfather planted shortly after purchasing the property. My grandmother had a still and I discovered her stash when I was four. Most of the vines are still producing.

When did your career in the wine/spirit business begin?

I've worked in restaurants since college. I've never been far away from the business.

Do you have a favorite varietal or region?

If I were stuck on a desert island and could only have one wine at hand, it would be Riesling. Other than that, I have no favorites, although I am partial to Spain.

What wines are you drinking now? Why?

Sherries. Lots of Sherries. They are versatile, easy to pair with food and more and more exciting ones are coming on the market all of the time. Sherries are very personal to the winemaker and they are a little on the wild side. I like the idea that a sherry can turn and be something other than what the winemaker planned -- without warning.

What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?

That you are not wrong about what you like or don't like. Everyone is different, has a myriad of tastes and should never become a slave to fashion. For instance, embrace a love for sweet wines. The sooner you accept your personal taste, the easier it will be to appreciate a variety of tastes.

Explain your technique for pairing wine?

Complimentary weight first, then opposites (dry with fatty foods for instance), then varietals and regions.

Do you believe in the "if it grows together it goes together" philosophy? And, why?

Absolutely, I believe in that philosophy. Mother Nature created a very balance world for man to try and destroy with built in food and wine pairings which we should utilize. However, there is caution: wine can be manipulated and if changed from what the natural result would be (either good or bad), it may not suit the foods it was harvested around and vice versa.

Any underappreciated wines or regions that we should know about?

Mexico could be huge (Baja California), Texas and Missouri have potential and New Mexico will loom big very soon. Southern Italy is making progress, the Middle East, the Balkans and there are many, many parts of Spain (outside of Rioja and Catalunya) that are finding markets. As for varietals, there are so many being rediscovered that it would be hard to pick just a few.

What are you drinking besides wine?

Tequila, orange juice, water, coffee (lots of coffee)……did I mention beer?

How did you become heavily involved with Sherry?

Sherry was part of the job description when I took the job at Suba (the parent of the Boqueria restaurants. Suba closed on February 28th, 2009). What I discovered as I started digging into the style was a fascinating subject with no possible conclusion. I was offered the chance to visit Jerez, which only cemented my interest. The rest is history.

Why do you think Sherry is such a tough sell outside of Spain?

Sherry is hard to understand (production is conducted in almost the opposite manner of other still wines), has the reputation of being an old ladies drink and has no presence in the auction market. So, it doesn't have a collector's following. On the plus side, sherry is almost always offered by the glass, there are excellent ones available at reasonably low prices and the market is growing. It is only a matter of time until the public discovers how wonderful they are.

Has your experience at the Copa Jerez influenced you in any way? How?

Copa was a dream experience. If I learned anything, it was to trust myself. You can never do enough research or know your subject too thoroughly and the most important thing is to enjoy yourself and your subject. I'm still pinching myself. I feel so lucky to have been a part of it.

In your opinion, why are wine and spirits integral for a fulfilling dining experience?

There is a complimentary relationship between food and wine that can't be matched with other beverages. You are either over-taxing your palate with sugar, or offering a lack of support, which leaves the food standing on its own when alcohol isn't involved. It's like the walls of a building without the angle supports to steady the beams.

What is your most memorable dining experience? Why?

Salt restaurant in Sydney, Australia. It was on my birthday a few years ago highlighted by terrific service, a rousing Aussie dining crowd to entertain me, great conversation and glorious food and wine. I had nothing to do but enjoy the moment.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Roger Kugler, Sommelier

Roger Kugler

Roger Kugler grew up on a farm in Missouri, which has been in the family for over 100 years. He is a consummate American mutt consisting of German, Danish, Dutch, French, English, Irish, Scotch, Swiss and Native American descent. One side of the family can be traced to the first boat destined to the New World from Amsterdam, dated back to 1620. Kugler spent a few years working as an actor in Europe. His idea of a perfect vacation is exploring a wine region, sans cell phone service, in a convertible with numerous cellar door appointments intact. Kugler is also a voracious reader. He was recently awarded Top Sommelier honors at the Copa Jerez in January 2009, and recently left Boqueria in Manhattan.

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