Expert Interview: Pete Daversa

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
I grew up on the shores of Long Island Sound. For the most part I was surrounded by seafood. Lobster, blue crabs, and corn on the cob were and still are some of my favorite foods.

When did you decide you wanted to be a pitmaster?
As long as I can remember; I've always cooked barbecue. I guess about 5 years ago when I decided to go to culinary school, I really focused in on being a pitmaster.

If you didn't become a pitmaster, what would you be?
If I had never gone to culinary school, I guess I'd still be in technology. I was a Director of Networks and Technology for an I.T. executive search firm for about 12 years prior.

Who/what has shaped your BBQ style the most over the years?
Growing up, I had always looked up to my older brothers. One of their favorite foods is baby back ribs. My dad always told me that to be the best you need to learn from the best. So, I guess I'd say Mike Mills. I read up on him and his techniques and tried to emulate his style of BBQ.

What are your favorite culinary weapons on the grill?
Tongs or my hands, if tongs are out of reach

What are your specialties at Hill Country?
I'd say my specialties at Hill Country are the brisket and the beef ribs.

What is more important for a pitmaster: technique or ingredients?
It doesn't matter how good your ingredients are if you don't know how to properly use them.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Patience, no matter what the situation. Whether it's the barbecue or your co-workers. Patience is the key to happy BBQ.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at Hill Country, what am I ordering to eat?
Chicken is always a safe bet. I did hear of a pit guy out in Lockhart, TX who decided to go on a Lean Brisket Diet. He ate it every morning in conjunction with walking 2 miles to work every day. He ended up losing 100 pounds.

What was the most challenging meal you've had to make? Why?
The most challenging meal I ever made was a private event for my family. My brother hired me to cook for fifteen people. I had no help and very little equipment. I worked twelve hours straight and made four courses and one dessert. The problem is that I feel my expectations are so much higher when I cook for my family. No matter how good it is, I feel it's never good enough.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
My worst restaurant disaster happened a few months ago. I had personally loaded the smoker with a load of briskets. Usually, I rotate the carousel a couple times to make sure it is loaded properly, but I was distracted by the carving line and walked away when I was done. I prided myself on the fact that I had never mis-loaded any of the smokers and was confident that I had done it properly. Well, I didn't, and it was a disaster. All of the briskets fell off the racks and the carousel inside the smoker twisted up so tight it took a hack saw and about 10 hours to fix. Needless to say, I learned my lesson.

What is your least favorite food?
I really like just about everything, but I guess I'd say black olives. I just don't like 'em.

What is your beverage of choice?
Alcoholic beverage would be Corona and non-alcoholic would be just about any flavor of vitamin water.

When you are not eating at the your own
restaurant...you are eating at?

Leo's in Hoboken. It's right under my place, and it's no frills Italian.

Which state inspires your style most?
Texas

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
I'd have to say the Kobe beef and sweetbreads at Craft.

What is your best BBQ tip for a home enthusiast?
Probably the same I give my staff. Be patient! Don't rush the BBQ.

What do you eat when you are home?
Take out. Whomever I can get to deliver when I get home from work. Sounds lame, but when you cook all day, it's nice to have it cooked and delivered to you. Besides, I really hate to do the dishes.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Pete Daversa, Chef, Hill Country

Pete Daversa

Pete Daversa grew up in Niantic, Connecticut, a small town on the southeastern shoreline. His fascination with food and the culinary world began as a kid growing up around his mother's cooking and with his first job at King Neptune's Fish Market. As time went on, he developed a personal passion for barbecue, spending his free time smoking ribs and brisket for family and friends any chance he could get. After a decade of working in the IT industry, Pete decided to switch gears and pursue his culinary dream. He met his future wife, who is a native New Yorker, moved to the city and graduated from the Culinary Arts program at the Institute of Culinary Education. He honed his love for barbecue for the next two years at Danny Meyer's Blue Smoke. Pete joined the Hill Country team in June 2007, shortly after the restaurant's opening. He was quickly promoted to his current role of Pitmaster/Executive Sous Chef and is thrilled to be sharing in the successes of the award-winning Hill Country and living his barbecue dream. Pete and his wife, Kristin, live in Hoboken, NJ with Marley, their yellow Labrador Retriever.

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