Expert Interview: Mohammad Islam
Behind the Chef
What were your favorite foods growing up?
Coconut curry shrimp and chocolate
When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
At the age of 24 I realized that I really love to cook, so I decided to make it my profession.
Where and when did your career in food begin?
16 years ago
If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
I would have proceeded with my career as a computer engineer, or I would have done anything to do with the outdoors.
Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
Malika Ameen, my wife
How would you describe your cuisine?
My cuisine is a marriage between different ingredients, which lingers in your palette.
What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
Different types of vegetables
What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Mandoline
What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Black cardamom
What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Discipline and respect
What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Passion for cooking, they really have to love cooking, not like it.
If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Almost everything, I don't believe in fatty food, with the exception of foie gras.
What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
A party for Anna Winthrop for 200 people with barely any kitchen to work with.
What was your worst restaurant disaster?
I'm waiting for it to happen.
What is your least favorite food?
Cilantro
What is your beverage of choice?
Earl Gray tea with milk and sugar
What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Asian Chinese cooking combined with nouveau French
When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Shanghi Terrace at the Peninsula Chicago
Which foreign country inspires your style most?
India and China
What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
Egg toast with caviar at Jean Georges 3 months ago
What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Don't be afraid to use your imagination
What do you eat when you are home?
Whatever my wife cooks and I love it.
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Expert Profile

Mohammad Islam
On February 4, 2004, Los Angeles Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila had rave reviews for executive chef Mohammad Islam's food at the Chateau Marmont Hotelsaying, "His sensibility is more Chez Panisse than the Ritz.... I wanted to move into the Marmont that night. Think of room service in a place like this. Now I know why some people barely budge once they've checked in."
But joining the ranks of America's star chefs wasn't even remotely on the mind of executive chef and co-owner Mohammad Islam back in 1995 when he was immersed in his career as a computer hardware engineer. Islam was a native of Bangladesh who grew up in the States and had taken a rather conventional career path, only to find he simply didn't enjoy it.
So in 1995, he took a break and went on a trout fishing expedition in Colorado. It was there that he had his epiphany -- his first love was really food and that was going to be his new professional journey. As a small child in Bangladesh, he had been highly influenced by his mother's and grandmother's cooking. They prepared elaborate meals from fresh, seasonal ingredients. "Bangladesh has a unique climate," he explains. "There are seven seasons, not just four, and each season has its particular flavors and ingredients. We don't have the frozen and prepared foods; everything is organic and freshly prepared. Even the street food is an indulgence, with lots of fish, shrimp and seafood. I learned to appreciate the flavors of pure ingredients, and to this day I cook simply and try not to hide these delicious flavors. That is also why I shop so intensely for the best suppliers and purveyors so that only the freshest ingredients make it to my kitchen."
With a culinary vision of his future now firmly in mind, Islam sought guidance from his friend, the acclaimed chef Gabino Sotelino, who analyzed the situation. "You don't need to develop discipline, you've already got that," declared Sotelino. "What you need is to learn how to cook--and that you can learn most quickly by doing it."
Sotelino helped Islam land a job as a line cook at the four-star Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Chicago, where for three years he worked under two-time James Beard award winner Sarah Stegner and her boss, the hotel's executive chef George Bumbaris. (The two now own the popular Prairie Grass Cafe.) "They molded me into shape as a chef," recalls Islam, "especially when it comes to traditional French technique. Sarah and George are hands-on chefs who have high standards. They never take any shortcuts when it comes to flavor. It's amazing that they meet these standards day after day--and they expect their staff to do the same."
The Dining Room became the first of several important proving grounds for Islam, who had natural talent, loved the work and learned very quickly. It also was a place of destiny, for there he first met the energetic and charming pastry chef who later became his wife and business partner, Malika Ameen.
With a bright culinary future ahead, Islam moved to New York City in 1998. His goal was to prove to himself that he could succeed in the most highly pressurized culinary city in America. He sought to work under the best chefs he could find, and inhale everything about the art of cooking and restaurateurship. He landed a job as sous chef at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's
Mercer Kitchen (he also cooked at the flagship Jean Georges) in Soho's luxurious Mercer Hotel, owned by André Balzas. Working closely with executive chef Chris Beisher, he was rapidly promoted to executive sous chef. "I really loved Jean-Georges' and Chris's approach to food," says Islam. "They used a French style but put more emphasis on the ingredients and less on sauces and added an appealing Asian influence. I had the opportunity to create original dishes each week for the special menu and I worked with a wide variety of ingredients. I felt myself blossoming as a chef and forging my own culinary path."
One day while working at the Mercer Kitchen, Islam was visited by his former colleague from the Ritz-Carlton, Malika Ameen. She walked into the restaurant with her typical enthusiasm and said, "I heard you were working here. I'm working at Balthazar, right nearby." Thus began a new relationship through which they discovered their common philosophy about food and life in general. They were married in 2002 and now have two delightful children.
Meanwhile, Islam's cooking was clearly noticed by the Mercer Hotel's owner, André Balzas. In 2003 Balzas asked Islam and Ameen to head the kitchen at his Chateau Marmont Hotel in West Hollywood. This legendary hotel had once been considered the "home away from home" for many of Hollywood's elite, and the two brought this illustrious venue to culinary life as it had never been before.
Now with the January 2007 opening of Aigre Doux, Islam has returned to his Chicago culinary roots fully armed to make his mark in this dynamic culinary town. He is quite excited about his new venture. "Chicago continues to grow rapidly as a fabulous food city and I am thrilled to become a part of this extraordinary scene."













