Expert Interview: Melissa O'Donnell

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Steak tartare. It was the first thing I ever "cooked" when I was five years old. After that, French onion soup and eggs benedict at The Brasserie, hummus and baba ghanoush at "Cedars of Lebanon," French dip at Martell's, spaetzle and roast chicken at home and Papaya King hot dogs.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I don't think I ever did

Where and when did your career in food begin?
I was waiting tables at The Peninsula Hotel. I thought the food was amazing and I became increasingly interested in what I was serving. I went to cooking school on a whim. My intention was never to become a chef, but then my curiosity led me to my first cooking job at "First" restaurant. The Chef/Owner, Sam DeMarco created the food at The Peninsula that originally sparked my interest in cooking. Ever since I started cooking I have been compelled to learn more and more about cooking.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
I would probably be a social worker or counselor of some sort.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
My childhood. Dinner was the most important family activity. My mother cooked every night and the family sat down together for a few hours over the dinner table. On Sundays we always went out as a family to different restaurants. All special occasions were marked by a special meal.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A good fish spatula, stainless steel pan, and a 6-inch chefs knife

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at Salt?
People and product: for me, cooking is part of the entire dining experience. I want people to gather at my restaurant, relax and connect with each other through the food they eat. The best way to do that is to keep the food simple and focused on a few pure flavors.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
I don't believe in secret ingredients. I think good product should be showcased in a simple straightforward manner. I like to enhance good ingredients rather than manipulate them. So, in that case I would have to say salt. Nonetheless, I think cooking is about sharing so I happily share recipes and information with anyone who wants them and never keep secrets.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Respect: for themselves, each other, food, cooking and the people they are feeding. The secondary value that automatically follows from that is teamwork.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Appetizer: Braised romaine lettuce, corn, radish, roasted garlic and Grana Padano.
Entrèe: roasted wild striped bass, braised Savoy cabbage, pickled beets, horseradish, orange, dill
Dessert: roasted market fruit, mascarpone cheese (hold the cheese).

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I actually have to serve my most challenging dinner next week. Dinner for 100 in a location without any equipment except four electric burners and two toaster oven sized convection ovens. It is a buffet, but everything is supposed to be eaten without utensils. Also I can't use any red meat, poultry, or pork. Again, it's supposed to be dinner, not a cocktail party.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
I was supposed to have a private function at Salt for 50 people. A food critic recommended the client, so I really wanted it to go well. It was an incredibly cold winter and the day of the event water pipes started bursting throughout the dining room. I had a friend who was a contractor come open the walls, repair the damage and plaster the walls. In the meantime, we prepared dinner with water in buckets from the restaurant next door. An hour before the event, the pipes burst again and the walls had to be re-opened to stop water from going everywhere. The dining room was not fit for guests. There was water and plaster everywhere. The client was coming from Washington D.C., so we were unable to reach him and tell him that we couldn't serve him dinner. The entire party arrived at once on a bus. I know that sounds like a bad joke, but it's true. As you can imagine it was incredibly embarrassing. Luckily, a restaurant down the street was able to accommodate the entire group of 50. Even luckier, the client was kind and understanding. Nonetheless, I still cringe when I think of this incident.

What is your least favorite food?
Lentils

What is your beverage of choice?
Txacolina white wine from the Basque country

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
I try not to observe trends. Nonetheless, I have noticed that most restaurants that open these days seems to have at least one communal table.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, you are eating at?
Sachiko's on Clinton Street

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Lebanon inspires me the most. The flavors are clean and vibrant. The food manages to be so light but with a depth and diversity of flavor that is amazing to me. But I don't think my style reflects that. My style is straight-up New American.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
I can't think of one in particular. I think even the most humble meal can seem spectacular, especially when it is shared with friends.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Trust your instincts and remember that cooking is supposed to be fun.

What do you eat when you are home?
I order in sushi. I never cook at home.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Melissa O'Donnell, Chef, Salt

Melissa O'Donnell

Born and raised in New York City, Melissa O'Donnell has worked consistently in restaurants since 1991. She graduated from the French Culinary Institute in 1994 and stayed on as an assistant chef to teach. She has cooked in a number of small New York City restaurants, including Le Zoo, before opening her first restaurant, Stella, in July of 2001. She is currently the Chef/Owner of Salt in SoHo and Salt Bar on The Lower East Side.

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