Expert Interview: Max McCalman

Behind the Cheese Expert

What are your earliest memories of cheese?
Sitting on my mother's kitchen counter, at 2 years old I was drawn to the cheese. She wouldn't let me touch it because I had a cold and she was afraid I would hurt the cheese.

How did your appreciation for cheese evolve?
That initial denial planted the seed, or maybe it was already there. Either way, growing up in Brazil I wasn't allowed to eat certain cheeses. They were not considered safe and sanitary practices were not what they are today in Brazil. Still, I was exposed to fine dining throughout my life. When working for the Sheraton Corporation I was asked to design their wine list. I began tasting luxurious cheeses with the wine and I realized cheese is cooler than wine. I have made cheese, but did not want to be a cheese maker; I am more of a cheese scholar. There is so much behind cheese; the history, science, economics, aesthetics, in the early 90's cheese became my mission. I was the first fromage expert in the US. We began introducing people to different cheeses with a small trolley, this was successful and gradually led to the bistro and then to Artisanal Cheese. I am now completing my third book on this near perfect food.

Which countries or regions have the best cheese?
US, Switzerland, Spain, Portugal, England, Holland, Italy, Canada, Ireland--The West of Europe, especially surrounding the Mediterranean. Excitement in US cheeses has grown in the last 10 years, American cuisine continues to mature.

How much cheese do you eat daily?
Average 3 to 6 ounces daily. Recently I went a few days without any cheese; this was unintentional and brought on depression. Cheese makes people happy; I talk about the scientific reasons for this in my next book.

What do you like to eat with cheese?
Fresh whole grain bread, high pectin fruit, honey, nuts, olives, wine and beer. I am basically a purist though; nothing should get in the way of the taste of the cheese.

What is your favorite kind of cheese?
I have favorite styles of cheese; sheep's milk, alpine, mountain and unpasteurized. I prefer hard cheeses to soft ones.

What do you cook with cheese?
Omelets or frittatas with a few vegetables

Which wine and cheese pairings do you enjoy most?
New combinations with lesser known varietals. Last night we had a tasting of Italian pairings. Vespaiolo, a white from Northern Breganze was the most successful with a broad range of cheeses; Nero D'Avola was also pleasant with a lot of different cheeses. It's important to understand that pairings do not have to be from the same region, wines and cheeses from opposite ends of the world can work beautifully together.

If readers learn just one thing from your books what should that be?
Cheese is a near perfect food.

Any other wisdom to impart?
Cheese is preserved milk and as such it is our first food.
I want to demystify cheese by talking and writing about it. I want to take care of and support cheese, for a long time it has had a bad wrap and part of my mission is to set the record straight on behalf of cheese.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Max McCalman, Cheese Expert, Artisanal

Max McCalman

Renowned as one of the cheese world's living legends for his expertise, insight and passion, Max McCalman is dedicated to helping others understand and enjoy the unique pleasures of artisanal cheeses. As America's first restaurant-based Maître Fromager and a Garde et Jure as designated by France's exclusive Guilde des Fromagers, Max established the critically acclaimed cheese programs at New York City's Picholine and Artisanal restaurants over the past decade and has become a highly visible advocate for artisanal cheese production around the world.

A veteran of the food and hospitality industries, Max has spent most of his professional life as a Maître d' Hotel and Sommelier. He served as General Manager of The Water Club in the early 1990s and joined Picholine in 1994 where, as Maître d', became a dedicated scholar of artisanal cheeses and created that restaurant's fabled cheese program with Chef-Proprietor Terrance Brennan.

As Dean of Curriculum at the Artisanal Premium Cheese, Max is leading the charge to raise awareness and spread the joys of artisanal cheeses to consumers and professionals alike with a distinctive, engaging style that suggests equal parts possession and obsession. Max also serves as a consultant to the trade and is a lecturer and teacher at the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), the Culinary Institute of America, New York University, the DeGustibus Chef's Tasting Series, The New School, and Walt Disney World. He has been featured on the Television Food Network, the CBS Evening News, the Cable News Network, and Martha Stewart Living Television.

Max's first book, The Cheese Plate (Clarkson Potter Publishers, 2002) was nominated for awards by the James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Cooking Professionals. His latest book, Cheese: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best (Clarkson Potter), is an expansive reference on the world's finest cheeses and wine-cheese pairings, which has won the 2006 James Beard Award. Max lives in Manhattan with his daughter Scarlett.

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