Expert Interview: Matthew Accarrino
Behind the Chef
What were your favorite foods growing up?
The women in my family can really cook. My mom used to make us the best stuff: quiche, beef stroganoff, lasagna. My grandmother was a baker; I must have had her chocolate cake every birthday till I was in college. I always loved pasta and still do.
When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
When I was in high school I broke my leg badly and had a lot of time to sit around and think about life while I recovered. Watching food icons like Julia and Pepin, also new faces at the time like Emeril and reading a lot about food, it really piqued my interest, I have never looked back.
Where and when did your career in food begin?
After I recovered from a broken leg injury I got a job at a local restaurant in New Jersey where I grew up. Everyday was such a learning experience; I was fascinated with cooking & all things culinary. Life in the kitchen really sucked me in. I eventually ended up in culinary school & have been cooking ever since.
If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
I used to race bicycles, I always thought I would do that forever. I still ride but not for competition just for fun.
Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
I have had a lot of mentors & influences over the years but what I took in and what defines me most is that I think of my job as a profession and always continue to push myself to learn more and be better at what I do.
What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
Ingredients, seasonality and technique. I want to cook the freshest, seasonal foods that I can. I love pasta & Italian food, which represents my heritage.
What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Salt and acid. Food without it is bland.
What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
To always seek to improve. Cooking is inherently a repetitive skill. There is always a chance to do something better than you did the last time. Finding satisfaction in the constant opportunity to do the same thing over and over is a crucial element in being a successful cook.
What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Attitude is paramount. Skills can be acquired, but the focus & determination needed is something you can just sense in people. I look for that more than anything.
What was your worst restaurant disaster?
During a busy service in a Manhattan restaurant all of the sudden the lights went out, I mean everything. The gas was shut off by a fail-safe in the building, we had nothing. I thought it was just us, just our restaurant; we walked outside & realized that there were no lights at all on the street everyone was out. Even the streetlights. The whole city was in a blackout! Some people were in mid-meal, we couldn't cook, they couldn't pay & no one could see. The power was out for a long time & when it came back on we were throwing away a lot of food from the refrigerators, which had not worked for a while. It was a crazy moment to live through.
What is your beverage of choice?
When I'm working, water. Otherwise wine. There is as much variation in wine as in food. It really is amazing to taste all the different incarnations that simple grapes can be expressed in.
When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
I like to support friends & peers by eating at their restaurants.
Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Italy
What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Season your food and take your time
What do you eat when you are home?
Simple foods. I love to make a salad with lots of fresh vegetables, croutons and cheese. I really appreciate variation in texture and flavor in food.
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Expert Profile

Matthew Accarrino
At SPQR, executive chef Matthew Accarrino's menu reflects his personal culinary philosophy of composing dishes using the freshest local and seasonal ingredients. Accarrino's creative and technique-driven approach seeks to showcase these ingredients and let them stand out.
Like countless other young chefs, Accarrino paid his dues washing dishes, prepping ingredients and pitching in around kitchens at various local restaurants in his native New Jersey.
In 1998, Accarrino graduated with honors from The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. Accarrino traveled to Labico, Italy, a rural town nearby Rome. During his time at the Michelin-rated Antonello Colonna restaurant, he was able to visit farms and forage for the restaurant's ingredients on a daily basis. This experience allowed him to develop an appreciation for seasonal, locally farmed food.
Upon his return to the U.S., Accarrino worked at Charlie Palmer's Metrazur, Todd English's Olives New York, and Rick Moonen's Oceana before opening Moonen's Restaurant RM as chef de cuisine. After two years, Accarrino was recruited in 2004 as opening sous chef at Thomas Keller's Per Se, one of New York City's most critically acclaimed restaurants.
In December 2005, Accarrino landed an interview with chef/restaurateur Tom Colicchio after writing him a letter expressing his respect for the chef's bold approach to dining. A meeting shortly thereafter led to positions at New York City's Craft, Craftsteak, Craftbar and, most recently, as chef de cuisine at Craft Los Angeles.
At SPQR, Accarrino's menu features local ingredients with an Italian sensibility. He strives to improve his technique and perfect his execution, utilizing his strong drive, refined palate, and point of view to artfully create soulful dishes that have come to mark his culinary identity.













