Expert Interview: Mark Fuller

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up in Seattle?
My mother's lasagna, hard cooked eggs mashed up with butter, my grandma's fried chicken wings, Deluxe Burgers at Dick's Drive-In

Where and when did your career in food begin?
Hanging out in our kitchen at home inspired me to choose a cooking class for summer school at the age of eight. At my first restaurant job, I was 16 and bussing tables in a deli in the business district downtown. Soon enough, I crossed over to the kitchen and was slicing meats and making sandwiches.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at Spring Hill?
Local ingredients, farmers, foragers and seasonality

You've worked with Tom Douglas for seven years. What is some advice that he's shared with you?
For the longest time Tom Douglas has been a role model of mine and still is. Not only for his knowledge of food and cooking or amazing business savvy, also for his honesty, loyalty, generosity and good nature. I thank him tremendously.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Be thoughtful — how you handle the food and how you affect the person next to you. Take care of what we have.

What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Confident not cocky, quiet, respectful, hardworking, eager and always wants to learn

What advice do you have for an aspiring chef?
To become a chef, you are going to have to sacrifice everything for some time. Money and a social life will not exist. Work as hard as you can with your mouth closed. Read as much as possible and realize there is something to learn for everybody and wherever you look in the restaurant.

What chefs, restaurants or cookbooks inspire you?
Jacques Pepin, Gray Kunz, Daniel Boulud, Jean-George Vongerichten, Charlie Trotter, Tom Douglas, Eric Tanaka, Michel Bras, Alfred Portale, Thomas Keller, Jean-Marie Josselin, Tom Colichio, Ferran Adria, David Bouley, Paul Kahan, Daniel Patteron, Paul Leibrandt, Dan Barber, David Chang, Wylie Dufresne, José Andrés, Elena and Juan Mari Arzak, and many more

What was the most challenging meal you had to make?
One year, I cooked Thanksgiving dinner at home for my family — all alone and having to wash a pot every time I needed one.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
Opening night of Spring Hill around 8:45pm

When you are not eating at Spring Hill, where are you eating?
The I.D. (in Seattle's Chinatown), Palace Kitchen, Serious Pie. Needless to say I am a big fan of Tom
Douglas' restaurants.

What do you like to cook or eat at home?
Anything delivery, sandwiches, steak with rice

What is your least favorite food?
Sweet potatoes and parsnips

What is your beverage of choice?
Fresca or diet ginger ale

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Don't be afraid of salt.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
At Jean-Georges in 2004

Describe the dining scene in Seattle. What trends are you noticing?
Restaurants are moving out of Belltown (downtown Seattle) and into the neighborhoods. There is a new generation of restaurants that are building on the work of our predecessors, so it's a pretty exciting time for the Northwest right now. Some trends I have been seeing are the so-called rebel/maverick/renegade chefs. Other trends that have inundated Seattle and the West Coast are rustic foods, simplicity, Italian, and pizza. As far as future trends, I see very small fine-dining restaurants — restaurants that are more easily managed but provide something very special and refined.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Mark Fuller, Executive Chef/Co-Owner, Spring Hill

Mark Fuller

Chef Mark Fuller discovered his passion for food while working with notable chef Jean-Marie Josselin on the Hawaiian island of Kauai at A Pacific Cafe restaurant. During his time in Hawaii, he realized cooking was his true calling and attended Culinary Institute of America. Upon graduating, he became the chef at Lucy's Table in Portland, Oregon where he further explored the regional cuisine of his native Northwest. He then moved on to join famed chef Tom Douglas and worked his way up the ladder to Executive Chef of Douglas's flagship restaurant, The Dahlia Lounge.

Fuller always knew he wanted his own place, so after seven years with Douglas, he and his wife, Marjorie, opened the 74-seat Spring Hill Restaurant & Bar. Designed by Heliotrope Architects, Spring Hill transformed what was once a flower shop in West Seattle to a contemporary restaurant, offering a chic yet sophisticated atmosphere in his distinct Pacific Northwest restaurant.

Chef Fuller has been named a 2009 Best New Chef by Food & Wine Magazine and Rising Star Chef 2009 by StarChefs.com. Spring Hill was named one of the 50 Best New U.S. Restaurants 2009 by Travel + Leisure, Top 10 Best New Restaurants in America by Bon Appétit and selected as Best New Neighborhood Restaurant by Seattle Magazine.

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