Expert Interview: Marcus Samuelsson

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Gingersnaps, meatballs, and mackerel

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
When I was in my mid-teens, around 15-years old

Where and when did your career in food begin?
It really began in my parent's home without me realizing it later growing into a career. Professionally, I started cooking school in Gothenburg in my teens then moved on to Austria.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
I'm not sure. I've been cooking for so long that I haven't really thought about it but maybe something else in the culinary/restaurant industry.

Who or what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
There are so many things in life that have contributed to my cooking. Firstly, my upbringing, the journey my life has taken me on. Sweden and Ethiopia play a really big part too and definitely being an American.

How would you describe your cuisine?
At Aquavit, it's modern Scandinavian. When I cook at home, I cook American home-style cooking with African and Scandinavian influences. And I always try to focus on the seasons to achieve the best flavor.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurants?
Season is very key for me and is my starting point; from there I focus on what type of food the restaurant design, concept, and geographical location calls for. C-House's menu, for instance, is made up mostly of seafood but we also try to integrate traditional American dishes and flavors inspired by the Mid-West. At Marc Burger, the focus and inspirations are obviously burgers but more importantly for me was to offer flavorful toppings and sauces and provide fresh, quality ingredients in a fast food setting. Because of Aquavit's fine dining tradition, we focus a lot on the concept of contemporary Scandinavian to create a refined version of that concept but of course also focusing on the season which means we change our menus quite frequently.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Hardwork is essential — it's definitely my go-to weapon when it's time to create good food. I also have an approach to cooking that's a bit difficult to explain in words; my belief in food is centered on texture, flavor, aesthetics, and temperature.In my kitchen at home I have a black BlueStar range -- the power and performance is the closest thing to what's available in a restaurant kitchen.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
One spice blend that I use a lot in my cooking is berbere, not really a secret within the Ethiopian community but not yet mainstream here in the US. It adds spice and flavor to a lot of dishes.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Passion for cooking and flavor — I genuinely believe that the emotion comes through onto the plate and is recognized and appreciated by our guests.

What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
There are a number of criteria my staff and I look into before hiring a cook but most importantly for me is a good work ethic and a positive attitude. I'm also interested in learning about their personal goals because it says a lot about that particular cook.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
There are lots of options at Aquavit, Riingo, or C-House. At C-House, you can order from a variety of fish entrées and have a salad or some oysters as a starter. At Riingo, you can enjoy the Miso Soup with Oysters and Tuna. At Aquavit, I would suggest the Ocean Trout with Apple Broth. (Note: Some menu options may no longer be offered at present time as menus frequently change.)

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I don't have one particular situation that comes to mind but I always find that cooking for a large party or group of people off-site can be very difficult. Many times, venues have very limited resources on cooking, such as no running water, limited electricity, and restrictions on equipment like gas burners. It can be a challenge but it's always important to meet people's expectations especially when they are used to quality cuisine when visiting our restaurants.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
As a young cook, I made a lot of mistakes but ultimately learned great lessons from them, and just like most young cooks, I got yelled at plenty of times. One particular New Year's Eve long ago while working in Switzerland, I completely ruined my portion of the very pricy dinner menu they setup for the occasion and I was cursed at the next day in German, English, and French.

What is your least favorite food?
I have yet to meet a food that I truly dislike.

What is your beverage of choice?
Water

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
I've been keeping an eye on how the economy has had its effect on the restaurant scene and noticed that people are looking for value more than ever and are craving comfort food. Casual settings and a comfort food driven menu is more popular than ever nowadays.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
It always varies. I enjoy restaurants in my neighborhood in Harlem, ethnic food stands and restaurants in Queens whenever I'm in the area, and some of my favorite Manhattan spots like Gotham Bar & Grill.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
There are actually two -- Sweden and Japan. I'd like to include America too, even though it isn't foreign, because the wealth of diversity in the cuisines offered across the nation.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
I believe it was when I travelled to Tokyo and had the opportunity to try pufferfish; it's called fugu in Japan and is a delicacy in that part of the world but can be lethally poisonous if not prepared correctly.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Invest in quality equipment, especially a good stovetop such as BlueStar and quality cookware because these will last for ages. If you want to replicate restaurant quality food, having restaurant quality equipment is essential.

What do you eat when you are home?
I very often eat Ethiopian food my wife has prepared like a chicken stew dish called Doro Wat served with injera, a type of bread.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Marcus Samuelsson, Chef/Co-Owner, Aquavit/AQ Kafé/August/C-House/Marc Burger/Riingo/Streetfood

Marcus Samuelsson

Marcus Samuelsson is the co-owner of Aquavit, a Scandinavian restaurant in New York City. He is also the chef at AQ Kafé, August, C-House, Marc Burger, Riingo and Streetfood. He was the youngest chef to earn three stars from the James beard Association and was named "Best Chef: New York City" food in 2003. Samuelsson has several cookbooks in both English and Swedish and was honored by the James Beard Foundation for his African-inspired cookbook "The Soul of a New Cuisine."

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