Expert Interview: Kelly McElearney

Behind the Wine Expert

When did you first become interested in wine? (When was your first taste? How was the experience?)
We moved to St. Helena when I was 7 years old. I remember the 1968 Beaulieu Georges De Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was just released. My parents were bringing it home by the case because it was so incredible. We would drink this with dinner and I recall my father making the comment that I was "ruined" forever as this was my baseline wine experience!

What brought you into the winemaking industry?
I grew up in a wine family. My parents started Duckhorn Vineyards in 1978 and I have been involved in the wine industry, at some level, since then.

For which wines is your company best known and respected?
Can you tell us a bit about these particular wines?

We are best known for our St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon 1886. This wine is the best expression of our site specific, 100% estate grown, organic/biodynamic farming practices. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon which really lets the terroir be expressed. We try to concentrate on the top 20% of our Cabernet Sauvignon lots each vintage so we can offer this as our finest expression of the estate.

What's the difference in the vinting process between your organic and non-organic wines?
We do not produce any inorganic wines. We are certified organic farmers and our vineyard practices comply with the standards set by CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). We also employ strict biodynamic farming practices as well.

Which is your favorite type to drink with dinner? Which one do you like to drink on special occasions?
Which wine with dinner depends on the season. In the summer, we grill a lot of fish and vegetables and I tend to gravitate to our Sauvignon Blanc. In the winter, I definitely drink more of the reds and I tend to oscillate between the Merlot and the Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon 1886 is usually opened when we have guests as I like to turn people on to our flagship wine.

If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
This may not be the normal answer, but I drink a lot of tea.

In your opinion, which country, other than the U.S., makes the best wine? Why?
This isn't an easy question for me. I like different wines from different areas. If I am drinking an import, it is usually on the recommendation of the sommelier or a key retailer and I have truly enjoyed Arneis from Italy, Albariño from Spain, and Sauvignon Blanc from Alsace. I will admit most of my non-domestic wine drinking has occurred in a foreign country in the company of close friends, so depending on the moment, I would say France, Spain and Italy are the best non-domestic wine regions.

What's the secret to the most delicious wine?
The setting and the people with whom it is enjoyed.

What's your best wine-drinking memory? What was the occasion?
Hmmm...I think working the harvest at Chateau Palmer in Bordeaux, France in 1982 was one of my best wine-drinking memories. I was with my "sister", Christine Nadalié, we were both 18 years old, and we drank red wine for breakfast, lunch and dinner for 5 weeks! When in Bordeaux, do as the Bordelaise do…

Do you have any favorite wine gadgets?
I'm not a gadget person. A Teflon coated wine key is essential...I keep wine keys in my glove compartment, my backpack, my desk, etc.

Do you have any basic "rules" for wine drinking, i.e. tips on how to pair your wines with certain foods?
For food and wine pairing, I think it's important to know your environment. If you are at a restaurant, the food should take precedence: ideally, you are dining out for the food experience. Pick the dish that is most appealing to you and then definitely ask for the sommelier to help with the wine selection. Ideally, the flavors of the food should not be in competition with the flavors of the wine. If there is a savory component to the food, then look for a wine that is also more savory/herbal. If the food is sweet, find a wine that has sweet notes.

What are your best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
If possible, visit the winery; understand the context of the wine experience. Do you want something playful, academic, expensive, inexpensive, to accompany a meal, enjoy as an aperitif, drink in the movie theatre, etc.
Have no regrets. If it's a wine that you don't really like, don't be afraid to acknowledge this! Mark your memory for what didn't appeal to you and chalk it up as a learning experience. On the converse, if it's something that you really loved, mark your memory as well so that you can find similar wines of that style, flavor profile, etc.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Kelly McElearney, Wine Expert, Ehlers Estate

Kelly McElearney

Raised in the Napa Valley, Kelly McElearney has spent her entire life in and around the wine industry. The daughter of Dan and Margaret Duckhorn, Kelly moved to St. Helena in the early 1970s and grew up around her parents' Napa Valley winery, Duckhorn Vineyards. After graduating from the University of California, Berkeley in 1987 with an inter-disciplinary major in Political Science and Economics, Kelly returned to school to study Agricultural Economics at the University of California, Davis. Throughout her studies, Kelly put herself through school working at Duckhorn Vineyards. In 1991, she joined Duckhorn fulltime, starting at an entry-level position and working her way up to vice president of marketing and sales. In 2002, she joined Ehlers Estate, inspired by its unique fusion of premium Napa Valley winemaking and global philanthropy. "It was a wonderful chance," says Kelly, "to do what I love, but to also do something noble."

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