Expert Interview: Kareem Massoud

Behind the Winemaker

When did you first become interested in wine? (When was your first taste? How was the experience?)
I first became interested in wine when I was 8 or 9 years old (the early 80s) when my parents were exploring sites to plant a vineyard in the tri-state (around NYC) area. By the time I was 13, my father and mother were pressing our first grapes in an old garage.

What brought you into the wine business?
I had a brief career in the finance sector, but what brought me back to my family's winery was the lifestyle. Working outdoors in the vineyard, living on the property, literally reaping the fruits of your labor and turning it into wine, what could be better? When I came back, it was like coming home as I did on vacations from school and work in the past. So, I feel as though I retired 40 years early. And, when you love what you do, it's not work, it's just what you love to do.

If you didn't become a winemaker, what would you be?
I may very well have remained in the world of finance.

Do you have a favorite varietal or region?
There is not any one region or variety that I favor. But in general, my palate leans toward old world wines, where my parents hail from and to which our terroir on eastern Long Island shares much in common.

If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
Sparkling wine doesn't count, right? If I'm not drinking wine it's either beer or a cocktail. Or spirits after dinner such as Cognac, Single Malt Scotch, Calvados, grappa or eau de vie.

What's your least favorite drink?
It's a toss up between warm, flat beer and warm, watered-down Pastis.

What's your best wine-drinking memory? What was the occasion?
Wow, it's so hard to narrow it down to one. My mother's 60th birthday was celebrated in the private dining room at the Gramercy Tavern. We brought along two double magnums of Paumanok 1993 Assemblage. The wine, the food, the family celebration, all made for an unforgettable experience.

In your opinion, which country, other than the U.S., makes the best wine? Why?
France. The uniform high level of quality throughout the country's diverse terroir and grape varieties is astounding. There is great wine made in every corner of France!

What are your thoughts on recent trends within the industry?
Two key trends:
1. More Americans are drinking wine than ever before. This bodes well for domestic wine producers and for consumers alike. The greater the market, the greater the competition. This means better selections and better prices for consumers.
2. Sustainability in wine, especially packaging and transport. Glass manufacturers are reducing the weight of a glass wine bottle to reduce its carbon footprint. This incremental improvement is commendable, but it pales in comparison to the exponential gain in sustainability and reduced waste achieved by restaurants serving wine by the glass and or carafe-- from kegs. Yes, kegs. The manufacture, distribution and recycling of all the packaging associated with "normal" wine in bottles is eliminated. Instead, a winery makes a one time investment in stainless steel kegs which can be reused hundreds if not thousands of times. Moreover, kegs are a fantastic package to guarantee wine quality. They can be purged with nitrogen or argon to eliminate oxygen from the keg prior to filling. Once the keg is full, it is completely full, i.e., no head space and thus, once again, no oxidation. A nice, air-tight seal is created by the standard sanke fitting that allows the keg to be tapped. Once the keg is tapped the wine is pushed through the tap by nitrogen or argon. All of these guarantee that the wine in a 19 liter (5 gal) keg will be preserved far better than a half full 750 ml bottle. As with screw caps, the possibility of cork taint is eliminated, no cork!

What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?
The most important thing to know about wine is very simple: you need to know what you like. Don't let someone else tell you what you should like.

What are some of your favorite food and wine pairings?
Fresh oysters paired with Paumanok Chenin Blanc never disappoints! A Sauternes, or any late harvest wine, with a nice blue cheese, such as Stilton or Gorgonzola, also never fails to delight.

Do you think any rules should be adhered to when pairing?
The basic rule of red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat generally holds true. But then again, rules are made to be broken!

What are some of the benefits of drinking wine?
Wine consumed in moderation will almost always result in a positive enhancement to your mood. It is incredibly versatile and delicious with food. And there are various studies that show it has life-expanding health benefits, when consumed in moderation, of course.

What wines should no home be without?
No home should be without a few bottles of bubbly. Sparkling wine makes every day feel like a special occasion.

Do you have any favorite wine gadgets? Are there any new ones on the market? If so, what are they and where can people get them?
I'm not a big fan of wine gadgets. But one really cool accessory I've come across is the Built NY Wine Tote. These neoprene bags are awesome. They keep your chilled bottles chilled for hours, they come in different colors and the empty bag takes up little space. Very cool.

What are your three best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
Don't be afraid to drink light bodied reds with fish and don't be afraid to drink them with a slight chill, especially if it's hot out. If you ever come across a wine that really reeks of rotten eggs or canned asparagus, try dropping a penny older than 1983 (they contain copper) in the glass, give it a swirl and see if it improves the aroma.

What is your favorite wine to make? Why?
My favorite wine to make is late harvest Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is a gamble. Ripe fruit is left hanging on the vine when it should ordinarily be picked. Just like any ripe fruit, the grapes begin to rot. If conditions permit, the noble rot (botrytis cinerea) will develop and we hit it big. However, if it rains and pours other undesirable rots may spoil the whole crop and we lose everything. The fruit is always hand-harvested and the press manually filled. The resulting juice is like nectar; super sweet and delicious. The juice is then fermented in new French oak barrels and the aromas emanating from the barrel are to die for!

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Kareem Massoud, Winemaker, Paumanok Vineyards

Kareem Massoud

After earning a BS in Economics from the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania, Kareem had a brief career in New York as a private equity analyst at a private investment firm. He decided to move on and ended up back at his family's estate winery on the North Fork of Long Island. Although he has been working full time at Paumanok for the last 12 years, Kareem has been actively involved in his family's wine making business since its inception in 1983. Kareem is a second generation winemaker, having learned the trade under his father's tutelage. His international travels to South Africa, Germany, New Zealand and Chile have given him a wide range of experience in the art of wine making.

Paumanok has been recognized with numerous accolades over the years including Wine Spectator's Critic's Choice Award, NY Wine & Food Classic's "Winery of the Year" Award and "outstanding" reviews in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Outside of Paumanok, Kareem serves on the Riverhead Farmland Preservation Committee, on the Board of Directors of Long Island Farm Bureau and as Chairman of the New York State Wine Grape Task Force.

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