Expert Interview: Jose Liriano

Executive Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Whatever my mother cooked. Everything she cooked was always so amazing, and definitely better than even my own cooking.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
A lot of different things made me want to be a chef. When I started working at Bice, I realized it was meant to be. I remember when I was first moving up at Bice, I wasn't just cooking. I was doing the payroll, scheduling, thinking up recipes, buying products, and everything in between. I realized that being part of a restaurant is about managing the whole restaurant, not just about cooking. That's what made me love the idea of being a chef.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
When I was younger, I got a job as a dish washer in a restaurant in Florida. Eventually, I worked my way up to a line cook. Once I started as a line cook for Bice, I immediately absorbed everything I could learn from as many chefs as possible.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
When I was younger, I thought I would like to be an accountant. But, as soon as I came to the US, I fell in love with the culinary arts.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
Bice's former Executive Chef Manuel Mattei had a huge influence on my cooking. When I first started working at Bice, he gave me the opportunity to get big, and I took it. He was always saying, "Jose, you want to be a big chef? You'll see, you can do it." He helped to shape who I am as a chef, how I treat my staff, and how I cook.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
The very basics:the pan and the knife! You know, you can't make any dish without them. As for brands, there's no specific kind I prefer.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
Well, we really like to be ahead of the curve. I like to try using a variety of seasonings, and only the best ingredients. I also mix a lot of different flavors together, that are not normally paired together. You know, it's really just my style. When you cook something, you have to find the right flavors and cook them the way that's most appealing to you. That's what I do, and everybody seems to like it.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
I really love spices from the Caribbean. Not any specific spice, though. When I go to the store, I just grab whatever spices I see first on the shelf, and then find a way to use them!

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
The general rule here is that when you cook something, you make it like you were making it for yourself. There's no better way to ensure that every dish is the highest possible quality.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I am eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
This question is very hard to answer, because generally, if you go out to eat, it's really hard to lose weight. It's especially hard for me to answer, because I work at an Italian restaurant with lots of amazing pasta! I would stick with the fish and chicken dishes, like our grilled sliced yellow fin tuna crusted with herbs and black pepper, served with sauteed seasonal vegetables and light soy sauce. It's very nutritious, and still delicious. Our vegetable sides are always a good idea too, or if you come in for lunch, you can get a salad.

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I don't really remember. Cooking comes easy for me. I never really had a hard time. Before I was a chef, when other chefs would show me how to make something, I would usually make it better than next time! When you cook with a recipe, and if you're smart with food, all you have to do is follow it.I guess it just comes naturally for me.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
I could mention a lot of restaurant disasters. In terms of opening new restaurants, I've seen a lot of cases where they make the kitchens too small, they don't have the right tools, or the openings happen too quickly. Restaurant openings are always tough —you spend hours and hours inside, doing so many different things at once. You really have to keep yourself cool and calm. If you get too hot, you're just gonna burn yourself.


What is your least favorite food?
I don't like mushrooms that much, but I have to eat them. When you're a chef, you gotta try everything!

What is your beverage of choice?
We have this great drink in the Dominican Republic.We just mix orange juice and milk together. It's called a Morir Soñando. A lot of Americans think it sounds gross, but when they try it they fall in love right away.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Maybe one big change is that chefs are getting fancier, and I've noticed that a lot more chefs are starting to use Caribbean ingredients, which you didn't see at all when I started. It used to be that Italian food used only Italian ingredients, but now you see Italian chefs using all kinds of ingredients. These days, it's all about fusion food and getting a wide range of flavors into one dish.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Alfredo of Rome on 4 West 49th Street. They've got some serious Italian food.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
I don't follow any culture in particular.I just have my own style.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
In Florida, they have a Brazilian restaurant called Texas de Brazil, a traditional Brazilian steakhouse. The way they do their meat is unbelievable. It's very, very, VERY good. The flavors are just amazing.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
I think the most important thing to stress is to always be careful with chicken. Fish or meat can be cooked medium rare, but undercooking chicken is so dangerous. Always make sure to cook it all the way through, and wash your hands constantly. Besides that, just make sure you're always cooking with passion and love, and everything should turn out great.

What do you eat when you are home?
You're not gonna believe it, but I usually just have meat or chicken with a vegetable or salad. I'm always watching my weight, so I never make pasta. If I do, I have to go to the gym for like two hours afterwards!

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Jose Liriano, Executive Chef, Bice NYC

Jose Liriano

Jose Manuel Liriano, the current executive chef at Bice's flagship restaurant in New York City, is a seasoned professional with over 17 years of experience within the Bice company. Like so many others, he started at the very bottom of the chain as a line cook, eagerly observing the chefs around him and absorbing their culinary knowledge. As he began to escalate in the field, chefs around him started to see his innate talent and passion for cooking ;mdash something that would help him excel through the kitchen's ranks and reach the post of Executive Chef.
Throughout the years, Liriano has taken the Bice name on the road, opening several of their worldwide locations with branches in Brazil, Mexico, California, and Florida. The Latin flair he injected into those locations has become his signature spin on the Bice brand: with his playful use of sweet tropical fruits and seasonal ingredients, Bice's traditional Italian classics are injected with new life and energy. Today, he returns to the kitchen where his career kicked off,"Bice NYC"and brings to it the same passion and care he did so many years ago.

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