Expert Interview: John Villa

Chef, Tao Restaurant

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Spaghetti and Meatballs on Sunday with Pot Cheese

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I started baking and cooking around 8 years old but didn't realize I was going to do it professionally until about 15 or so

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
Shortstop for the New York Mets

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
I was inspired by my grandmother throughout my life; now my inspiration comes from traveling and from my sous chefs and cooks. You can learn something from anyone.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Kecap Manis- it's an Indonesian soy that I love to use; it adds a great depth of flavor.

What are your signature dishes at Tao?
Hands down our Peking Duck and Satay of Chilean Sea Bass

What is more important for a chef- technique or ingredients?
They go hand in hand; one is no good without the other.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Be responsible and constantly taste your work.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at Tao, what should I order to eat?
Tao Chefs Roll from the sushi bar, Chilean Sea Bass with Wok Roasted Vegetables, or Seared Tuna with Asian Greens and Sansho Sauce

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I did a tasting menu with all Chimay beers and had to pair food with it for 6 courses. It was challenging and a lot of fun.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
I was the chef at Judson Grill and during a mad pre-theater rush the ventilation system went out and we had to figure a way of putting out 200 meals with almost no stoves.

What is your least favorite food?
Anything with black licorice.

What is your beverage of choice?
Chimay and a good Brunello like Ciacci Piccolomino; non alcoholic is Thai iced tea.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing? Food always seems to go back to simple flavors, simple prices and simple dining when there is a recession.

When you are not eating at the your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn or at home with my wife and kids. Every Sunday my mother in law cooks a big meal for all of us.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Thailand

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
In a town called Lucca in Tuscany there is a tiny pizzeria across from a duomo called Pellegrini where the brick oven is probably 800 years old. The pizza that comes out of that oven is life changing. You will never look at another slice of pizza the same again. I would fly back there right now for a slice.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Sharpen your knives and throw out your iodized sea salt.

What do you eat when you are home?
I keep it simple. My kids love the Swedish pancakes I make, so we eat those a lot. We eat a pasta and risotto; and, honestly, a lot of take out.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: John Villa, Chef, Tao Restaurant

John Villa

At a young age, Executive Chef John Villa has already had a remarkable career. There is no doubt that Tao Restaurant's current success can be attributed to the lofty expectations that Chef Villa helps make a reality.

Chef Villa comes from a family that is passionate about food. Raised in Nutley, New Jersey, Villa's Italian grandmother was an artist in the kitchen at home; while his parents dined at the finest restaurants in New York City. The combination provided Chef Villa with a deep respect for food, and the perspective on how it might impress the most discerning of palettes, on the biggest of stages. It was no surprise when Villa enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America at the age of 19.

After graduation, he trained under Daniel Bouloud at Le Cirque and spent three years at Tropica following. Villa's big break came when he was hired at Judson Grill. Within months he trimmed the kitchen staff, cut food costs in half, created a noteworthy menu, and earned himself a new title as Executive Chef. His hard work paid off, earning his first two-star rating from the New York Times. "This would not work so well if the chef, John Villa, did not understand what people want to eat…this food is flavored with authority and geared to modern tastes," explained New York Times' Ruth Reichl. At just 24, Chef Villa had already eclipsed his peers.

Villa spent four years at Judson Grill before lending hand in the recreation of the Boathouse in Central Park. He was given high regards from press and, yet again, received two stars from the New York Times. Ed Levine for Business Week said, "At 26, wunderkind chef John Villa turns out food that finally matches the magical view of the rowboat pond and Bethesda Fountain." It was now clear that Chef Villa was much more than just a young prodigy. He was well on his way to becoming one of the most distinguished chefs in New York City.

It was during that time that Villa deciding to open his own Portuguese-inspired restaurant, Pico. Villa received universally high media acclaim once more; including his much deserved three-star rating from New York Times. New York Times' William Grimes acclaimed, "John Villa has created his own private Portugal, a fantasy wrapped in a shimmering haze."

With incredible success as a Chef, Villa decided to take a step behind the scenes, masterminding of one of the largest and most successful Pan-Asian kitchens in the world. His remarkable skill, unparalleled praise, and industry knowledge has lifted Tao Restaurant to new heights. Villa's creativity is already on display at Tao with his visionary, Dry-Aged Kobe Special, which is served by request, at $180. Chef Villa is nothing less than a master and Tao is pleased to have him.

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