Expert Interview: Heather Bertinetti
Behind the Chef
What were your favorite foods growing up?
My mom's tomato sauce, goat cheese sandwiches and jelly doughnuts, not all together of course!
When did you decide you wanted to be a pastry chef?
When I was about 7 — I always used to watch a show called Great Chefs of the East and since then I've always wanted to pursue this career.
Where and when did your career in food begin?
This little pastry shop in New Jersey called La Petite Patisserie
If you didn't become a pastry chef, what would you be?
A history teacher, definitely American Studies
Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
I can't just pick one person or experience — I've learned from each chef I've worked for and from all experiences I've had.
How would you describe your desserts?
I use classic flavors and flavor pairings which I then interpret in a modern and Italian way.
What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
Definitely my Misono slicer — I use that knife for everything I cut.
What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Consistency!
What qualities to you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Kitchen awareness and an understanding of the sense of urgency
If I'm trying to watch my weight, but still want dessert at Alto or Convivio, what am I ordering to eat?
Well, I guess I'd have to say either freshly spun sorbet or a fruit plate but, I'm not going to lie: fat is flavorful and I use it quite liberally!
What is your least favorite food?
Hard-boiled eggs and mayonnaise
What is your beverage of choice?
Iced tea if we're talking non-alcoholic, Gin and Tonic if we're talking alcohol.
When you are not eating at Alto or Convivio, where are you eating?
I'm a big fan of burgers and cheeseburgers and love the Spotted Pig's; also a fan of Corner Bistro's.
Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Italy, of course!
What is your best tip for a home baker?
Don't over-bake cookies! People should pull cookies out of the oven before they think they're ready because they continue to cook as they cool.
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Expert Profile
Heather Bertinetti
Heather Bertinetti is the talented young pastry chef of Manhattan's acclaimed Italian restaurants Alto and Convivio. Bertinetti was drawn to baking at a young age: her entire family would gather at her grandmother's house each week for Macaroni Sundays, where everyone would feast on a big Italian meal replete with homemade sauces, Italian cheeses and meats and breads. Bertinetti wanted to be involved in the meal and found her niche through desserts: The family always finished the meal with store-bought cookies and cakes. At the age of five, she lit her Easy Bake Oven and started churning out cookies for the family meals. Her mother realized her passion and bought her a Mrs. Fields Best Cookie Book Ever, which Bertinetti happily baked her way through, much to her family's delight.
In high school, she worked as a pastry apprentice at La Petite Patisserie, a French pastry shop in Dumont, New Jersey. It was the owner of the shop who guided Bertinetti toward the Culinary Institute of America, and encouraged her to pursue an education and career in the world of sweets. After graduating from the CIA, Bertinetti began her career working with Michelle Antonishek, one of Claudia Fleming's disciples, at Gramercy Tavern. Under Antonishek (and then Fleming's tutelage), Bertinetti learned how to efficiently procure desserts during busy lunch and dinner services, keeping an eye on speed while paying close attention to quality and presentation. After two years, she moved uptown to join the team at Per Se, where she refined her skill set by working with Sébastien Rouxel, to learn the language of intricate, complex desserts.
After two years, Bertinetti joined the team at Alto worked alongside Debra Snyder before being promoted to Pastry Chef. As Pastry Chef of Alto and Convivio, she works closely with Chef White to make sure her desserts reflect the soul of each restaurant. Bertinetti's passion is Italian flavors such as strong espresso, rich dark chocolate, bright citrus and sweet, fresh fruit and she applies these flavors to classic Italian desserts including bomboloni, tartaleta, torta and panna cotta to create elegant but straightforward dishes that complement White's cuisine.
Bertinetti's desserts have been lauded by New York, Time Out New York, The New York Observer and The New York Daily News and she has been featured on WOR Food Talk with Mike Colameco.
