Expert Interview: Eric Zillier
Behind the Sommelier
When did you first become interested in wine? (When was your first taste? How was the experience?)
It wasn't until my junior year in Aix-en-Provence where I had my first wine tasting with some friends. They were all very good bottles, but I don't think I appreciated them at the time. I still have my notes. The experience was revelatory if not life-changing.
What brought you into the wine business?
I had to pay for college somehow so I chose to work in restaurants. The more I learned about the different aspects of wine, the more I wanted to learn. Fortunately the people I came across along the way were very helpful and encouraging.
Do you have a favorite varietal or region?
As a rule I like wines that have bright acidity and integrated, balanced tannins. A couple of my favorite regions are Burgundy (white and red), German Riesling and Piedmont.
If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
I generally don't drink anything too high octane with food. I'm from Milwaukee so I like an easy-drinking beer at a bar. If I decide to go with spirits I will have gin, tequila or mezcal (if they have a good one).
What's your least favorite drink?
One that is cloyingly sweet.
What's your best wine-drinking memory? What was the occasion?
There is one that involves 1990 Cristal that I can't talk about. Instead, I would say it is tied between an extensive Jayer vertical and a large format Petrus vertical going back to l921.
In your opinion, which country, other than the U.S., makes the best wine? Why?
The term "the best" is tricky. I'm more concerned with which countries are living up to their potential given their Cristal Terroir. More areas of France are at this point better than anywhere else. Italy is getting there (depends on the region). They are finally respecting what they have been given and they are making wines that work in the respective regions. As for the U.S., I feel as though, as in most New World countries, the market drives wine production more than soil or climate. Of course there are exceptions to this...
What are your thoughts on recent trends within the industry?
On the one hand I am disturbed by the amount of over extracted, high alcohol, oak laden wine that is out there. On the other hand it I am comforted by number of winemakers that are gravitating more towards wines with balance.
What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?
Keep an open mind. Like anything, generalizations are important for overall understanding but don't let them get in the way of learning.
What are some of your favorite food and wine pairings?
A white wine from Campania called Falanghina with raw fish; Barolo with game and white truffles; a light Sangiovese with a New York slice.
Do you think any rules should be adhered to when pairing?
Rules should only be followed if they don't get in the way of a good time. There are guidelines. For example- Dover sole in a white wine and butter sauce doesn't go well with red wine. If someone ONLY drinks red, then throw the rule out the window and choose a red that is going to do the least amount of harm. The only rule that should never be broken is to make the diner happy.
What are some of the benefits of drinking wine?
There has been talk about antioxidants and slowing the ageing process or inhibiting heart disease, but for me the most direct benefit of wine involves bringing people together. There is no television show or movie that I have ever seen that I would choose over eating and drinking wine with old and new friends.
What wines should no home be without?
It is always good to have some comfort wines (wines that you like no matter what anyone else thinks) as well as some wines that you've never had before. And a few bottles of Champagne of course.
Do you have any favorite wine gadgets? Are there any new ones on the market? If so, what are they and where can people get them?
I'm suspicious of gadgets. All I need is a bottle, or any other vessel that contains wine, and I'll figure out the rest.
What are your three best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
If you're in a restaurant or a wine store use language that you feel comfortable with to explain what you want. Avoid using the terms sweet and dry. Always keep an open mind if you want to learn about wine.
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Expert Profile

Eric Zillier
Eric Zillier discovered his love of wine while studying international affairs in Aix-en-Provence, seduced by open-air markets and the surrounding wine country. A Milwaukee, Wisconsin native, Zillier has worked in restaurants and with a wine importer, educating himself and developing a passion for the wines of France and northern Italy. Zillier has worked as a sommelier for highly respected New York City restaurant,Veritas,where during his five-year tenure the restaurant earned the prestigious Grand Award from Wine Spectator. As wine director at Alto, Zillier has hand-selected a broad list of over 2,500 selections that pays fitting tribute to Northern Italian white and red wines as well as a remarkable selection of fairly priced vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy. In 2008, Wine Spectator honored Alto with the Grand Award.













