Expert Interview: Dushan Zaric

Behind the Mixologist

What culinary memories do you have growing up in Yugoslavia?
Everything was homemade and seasonal. I grew up in a big family with communal lunches and dinners every day. Lots of friendly arguments between aunts, uncles and my parents provided extra spice to every meal. I learned that food is more than a means to an end; for me, it was always an experience. My mother and grandmother cooked so well, with such subtle interplay of flavors and textures that I developed really high standards of what I was looking for in taste. Drinking, especially wine, was always a part of every lunch and dinner. My first glass of half wine-half water was given to me by my dad when I was five-years old. That's when he told me -- wine is food, not something to get high on.

Where and when did your career as a bartender begin?
My first real bartending job was at LOT 61 a former über cool, hip lounge/restaurant in West Chelsea in 1998. Before that, I bartended all over the Greek Islands, but I first encountered real American-style bartending in New York. I quickly moved to Pravda where I met Jason Kosmas, who was to become my partner in all things bartending, and where we met our teacher — Lama Dale DeGroff. Dale passed on to us the understanding that we are a part of a lineage and showed us that bartending is a real profession that, when practiced properly, enables the person to become an extraordinary human being.

Employees Only set the trend for the speakeasy bar in New York. What was the inspiration behind the bar?
There were a few ingredients mixed together that served as inspiration to us at the time. First, we wanted a safe haven for all restaurant employees — a place where they can come after their shifts are over and relax, get a great drink and a tasty bite, and enjoy a place with people just like themselves. Historically, Prohibition was the first time after the colonial days that women and men drank together socially in speakeasies while breaking the law together, which was sexy, fun and exiting. We wanted to capture that feeling of subtle sexual excitement in our design and be the first real cocktail restaurant in the city where the quality of the food and the cocktails are on the same level. It was very important to us that our guests have an overall experience of quality, a good time, lots of positive imagination and, of course, an abundance of eye candy.

Macao Trading Company is a great mix of Portuguese and Chinese in an old-world setting. What was the concept behind the bar and menu?
Although it doesn't look so at first, Macao is a logical move both conceptually and creatively. We wanted to deliver another all-inclusive gastronomical experience, this time with a Mediterranean-Asian inspiration. We toyed with the concepts of a waterfront port warehouse, which serves as a motif in our main floor dining room, and the "business" of selling opium, gambling and prostitution in our downstairs lounge. Macanese food is unique and we wanted to give New Yorkers the opportunity to enjoy it our way.

What trends have you been observing?
Lately, it's become very important, and rightfully so, to use ingredients in both cooking and making cocktails which have a heritage, history and a traceable origin. People want to know how the pig was fed, how it was slaughtered, where and how the potatoes were grown, and if the citrus was picked when ripe and ready or picked steel green and then sprayed and waxed in transport. All this information is now out there and people are taking notice. On the other hand, unfortunately, some would-be "foodies" and blogers concentrate too much on information and too little on developing and maturing their palates and experiencing food. Now, there are too many "foodies" but too few real gourmands. The same applies to the cocktail world, where there is an abundance of 22 to 25-year old cocktail nerds wearing mustaches and suspenders trying to tell me that there is no orange Curaçao in the original Manhattan cocktail, etc. Very lame...

You co-wrote You Didn't Hear It From Us: Two Bartenders Serve Women the Truth About Men, Making an Impression and Getting What You Want. What crazy things have you seen or heard as a bartender?
You know, the book we wrote was the real thing — shocking, to the point, and aimed to help people. Our AC-DC, in your face, rock 'n roll story was turned into consumer-friendly, "let's not alienate our readers", cheesy bullshit, so I won't talk about that. But, if you're interested, come see me when I am behind the bar at Employees Only or Macao and I will tell you the real stories.

What is your signature drink?
I do not have a signature drink per se, but my favorite cocktail to make changes every so often. Right now, I am in a phase where I am in love with Rye Whiskey Sazeracs and everything with 100% Blue Agave Tequila.

What are your favorite gadgets to use when making cocktails?
For tools, I use the standard Boston Shaker and always build my drinks in a mixing glass using free pour. I never had time to get my license to use jiggers.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
I have to say that varies as well — currently, kaffir lime leaves, Thai basil, Chinese Five-Spice bitters, and the Employees Only homemade grenadine and lime cordial.

What inspires you in creating new cocktails?
Usually, it's a combination of new ingredients with a new or re-discovered distilled spirit or cordial. However, it is always a spontaneous thing. Lately, I have been helping our bar staff with suggestions on how to achieve the three-dimensional taste in their own creations, finding out that I unintentionally contributed a lot to the final outcome. But, the credit still goes to them.

What is your drink of choice and what do you like to eat with it?
Gin, with oysters; wine, with all food; 100% Blue Agave Blanco Tequila on the rocks in a glass; and Fernet Branca, after I have eaten everything I wanted

What is your least favorite drink?
Spirits created by marketing companies. In other words, things with little or no essence, character or integrity.

What do you like to drink at home?
Wine and a beer occasionally. In the summer, I sometimes mix myself a Tom Collins or an Americano.

When you are not behind the bar, what bars do you like to go for a drink?
Anywhere where a bartender friend works. Fortunately, there are a good amount of great bars now in New York City, like PDT, Pegu Club, Clover Club, Milk & Honey...

What is your best tip for the home enthusiast?
Think of making cocktails like cooking food. There is a procedure and a method. Practice is essential and getting familiar and fluent with classics will enable you to be able to improvise, which is how all great cocktails came about. Finally, to really be a master cook or bartender one has to be able to intelligently break conventions and learn how to infuse a piece of oneself into every dish or cocktail that is served, only then will they be exceptional.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Dushan Zaric, Mixologist/Partner, Employees Only/Macao Trading Company

Dushan Zaric

Since arriving on American soil from his native Yugoslavia in 1996, Dushan Zaric has become one of New York's best professional bartenders, bringing together potentially harmonious spirits on both sides of the bar over the last 13 years. With his partner Jason Kosmas, Dushan started Cocktail Conceptions, a consulting company that helps develop drinks for various restaurants, bars and spirit brands. Most recently, Cocktail Conceptions was involved in the brand conception and development, marketing strategies and customized cocktail menu development for 10 Cane Rum. Dushan also heads the Educational Department of Cocktail Conceptions which specializes in restaurant and bar staff training and seminars in cocktail history, spirit production, consumption and the "slow food" approach to drinking as an integral part of the gastronomical experience. Clients include: Pravda (NYC), Schiller's Liquor Bar (NYC), Funkshion Bar & Lounge (Miami), Westin Hotels and Resorts, Bar Marmont (LA), The Drake Hotel (Toronto, Canada), Jean Georges J&G Steakhouses in Scottsdale, Washington D.C. and Mexico City.

Dushan uncorked a basic knowledge of wine at the Institute for Culinary Education and soon began bartending at Les Halles before progressing to Lot 61. In 1998, he started working at Pravda in New York City, where he met Jason Kosmas. After tending the bar at Pravda for five years together with Jason, Dushan relocated to his employer's new restaurant Schiller's Liquor Bar, where he was Head Bartender and created the cocktail menu. In 2004, Dushan partnered up with his long time bartender friends Jason Kosmas, Igor Hadzismajlovic, Henry LaFargue and Billy Gilroy to create and open the bar-restaurant Employees Only. The bar/restaurant has received numerous awards including "Best Classic Cocktail 2005" and "Best Cocktail Bar 2008" by New York magazine and "Best Signature Drinks 2006" by AOL Cityguide.

Simultaneously with the opening of Employees Only, the team launched the first licensed bartending school American Bartending Institute of New York, which teaches students how to use real alcoholic beverages and spirits in order to preserve the craft of classic American bartending. In November 2008, Dushan and his partners opened Macao Trading Company. Most recently, Dushan created cocktails for New York City's East Side Social Club.

In 2006, Dushan Zaric and Jason Kosmas published their first book titled You Didn't Hear It From Us: Two Bartenders Serve Women the Truth About Men Making an Impression and Getting What You Want (Atria Books) — an objective assessment of the realities in a bar, filled with interesting cocktail recipes, bar etiquette and observations. Set to publish in 2010, Dushan and Jason's second book will feature Employees Only cocktails.

Dushan's work has been recognized in numerous publications including the New York Times, Time Out NY, Bride's, Food Arts, New York magazine and Elle. TV appearances include America's Top Bar Chefs (Fine living network), Queer Eye For The Straight Guy (Bravo), Fox News Live and numerous appearances on the Food Network.

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