Expert Interview: Drew Nieporent

Behind the Restaurateur

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Dad used to do legal work for restaurants, so we would eat out at all different types of places in New York City. My favorites were Italian and Chinese food.

When did you decide you wanted to be a restaurateur?
As a child, when I went out with my family, I would try to get a seat at the table where I could get a great view of everything that was going on. It was fascinating to watch the interaction between the kitchen, servers and managers. I thought it would be exciting to take my ideas and try to implement them to make people happy. It seemed liked an honest and fulfilling way to make a living. I didn't know the word "restaurateur" then, but I knew it was what I wanted to be.

Where and when did you career in food begin?
I worked in the kitchen of a summer camp I attended in Saugerties, NY. Most importantly, I became a Quarter Pounder grill man at the first McDonald's in Manhattan.

If you weren't a restaurateur, what would you be?
I would have gravitated to sports and music. When I was playing sports growing up, I would sometimes get the winning hit or make a great play. You can't help but project what it might feel like to do it on a bigger stage. The same goes for music. Sometimes I've participated in a band during culinary events, and it's a great feeling to sing songs like "Taking Care Of Business" and "Roadhouse Blues."

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Yuzu is a Japanese citrus. It has a wonderful flavor and works well in several of Nobu Matsuhisa's recipes.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in your staff?
We try to emphasize the importance of teamwork. Everyone has a role to play, and a responsibility to fulfill. We expect mutual respect and a "can do" attitude. We provide an atmosphere that allows talented people to excel.

What qualities do you look for when hiring chefs?
Talent, work ethic, stamina, and a positive attitude. Working in a kitchen is demanding. Talent is very important, but without the other qualities, one can't be successful. It's hot, you're on your feet for many hours, and you're working with sharp objects. You'd better be able to get along with your colleagues and even inspire them.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and eating at your restaurant, what should I order?
We offer many healthy choices. One of my favorites is "Drew's Salmon" at Tribeca Grill. It's a simple preparation, grilled with lemon. Delicious and satisfying.

What is your least favorite food?
I am an adventurous eater and willing to try just about anything. I don't want to get any Scots upset, but I'm not an aficionado of haggis.

What is your beverage of choice?
I really enjoy a robust Bloody Mary.

What are some dining and culinary trends you've been noticing?
I am reluctant to make any grand pronouncements because I think there are a wide variety of restaurants that serve many dining constituencies. Most guests are looking for a well-rounded experience. They want to be treated well. If they're regulars, they want to be recognized. They want the food to taste good, and they want a good selection of wines and other beverages to accompany the meal. They want to sit in a comfortable chair. And they want the price to reflect good value.

When you're not eating at your restaurants, where are you eating?
I'm fortunate to eat at many fine restaurants here in New York City, all over the country, and internationally. Many prominent and not-so-prominent chefs and restaurateurs are my friends. At the risk of disappointing someone, or inadvertently leaving someone out, I'm only going to mention one place that I've gone to for many years after years — Benito's II in Little Italy in New York City.

Which foreign country inspires you most?
I've operated American, French, Japanese, Vietnamese and other restaurants that are a hybrid of styles. I find much to admire in all of them. My first restaurant, Montrachet, was new style French, and I think that the French style influenced me most in my early career. The French had an early lead, but the rest of the world has caught up.

What was the most spectacular meal you've ever had?
The late Jean-Louis Palladin was a great influence on me, and I enjoyed many wonderful meals that he prepared at several different venues. He was from Gascony and the king of foie gras, as well as a master soup maker.

What do you like to eat at home?
I enjoy pasta. Bring it on!

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Drew Nieporent, Owner, Tribeca Grill

Drew Nieporent

Drew Nieporent, one of America's most respected and celebrated restaurateurs, is the founder and inspiration behind the Myriad Restaurant Group, which operates Tribeca Grill, Nobu New York City, Nobu Fifty Seven, Nobu London, Nobu Next Door, Corton, Centrico, and Crush Wine & Spirits. Over the last 20 years, Myriad has consulted on restaurants in Seattle, Louisville, Providence, Boca Raton, Moscow and now Citi Field, home of the New York Mets in Flushing, New York.

A graduate of the Cornell Hotel School ('77), Nieporent worked on the world class cruise ships Vistafjord and Sagafjord while still a student. In 1978, he began his management career with Warner Le Roy at New York City's Maxwell's Plum and Tavern On The Green. He then worked at the prestigious French restaurants Le Pèrigord, La Grenouille and Plaza Athénée's Le Regence.

Corton received three stars from the New York Times and has been nominated for Best New Restaurant in America from the James Beard Foundation. Montrachet earned three stars from the New York Times and kept that rating for 21 years. Tribeca Grill, with partner Robert De Niro, opened to national acclaim and continues to be one of New York's landmark restaurants. In 1994, Nieporent launched Nobu in New York and Rubicon in San Francisco with Francis Ford Coppola. Most recently, the New York Times awarded three stars to Nobu Fifty Seven and two to Mai House. Numerous awards include Montrachet's Outstanding Service from the James Beard Foundation (1995); Nobu's Best New Restaurant from Beard (1995); Rubicon's Outstanding Wine Service from James Beard (2000); Nobu's NRN Hall of Fame (2005); and Restaurant & Institution's prestigious Ivy Award for four restaurants (Nobu, Tribeca Grill, Rubicon and Montrachet). Food & Wine named Crush Wine & Spirits the best new wine shop of 2005. Myriad is the only restaurant group to earn three coveted Grand Awards from Wine Spectator magazine - for Rubicon, Montrachet and Tribeca Grill.

Drew's many personal honors include The James Beard Foundation's "Who's Who of Cooking in America" (1992), Humanitarian of the Year (2000) and nominations for Outstanding Restaurateur award for the last three years. Other recognition includes Bon Appetit's Restaurateur of the Year (2000), Man of The Year from The Food & Beverage Association (1993), and DiRoNA's Humanitarian Award (2000) and Hall of Fame (2005).

Drew had dedicated much of his time to charity and is on the board of Citymeals on Wheels and DIFFA, an Honorary Chair of the City Harvest Food Council and Culinary Director of the Jackson Hole Wine Auction. He has co-chaired SOS's Taste of the Nation event in New York City since 1997.

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