Expert Interview: Donald Link

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
My favorite foods were dishes that my grandparents cooked: smothered pork, gumbo, creamed corn and desserts like German Chocolate Cake.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I cooked most of my life, but it wasn't until I was 23-years old, when I was cooking in San Francisco. I was doing a Louisiana menu at dinner at a restaurant know for breakfast. People started to come and see me and I built a following. That's when it hit me that I wanted to do this forever.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
I worked at a Mexican restaurant in Sulphur, LA at 15-years old. I started as a dishwasher and moved up to the line.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
An astrophysicist

What inspired you to open Cochon Butcher?
Growing up in Cajun country you get used to getting your sausage and boudin from a small local person, so having a small place in the neighborhood felt right.

What makes the perfect muffalatta?
Good meat from Cochon butcher, good acidity of the olive spread, and not too much bread

What is your favorite pork dish?
My granny's smothered pork

What's your drink of choice?
Burgundy

What are your least favorite foods?
My least favorite are foods cooked improperly without any care or attention.

What are your culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A giant meat cleaver...wait, what do you mean by weapon? Really sharp knives

What would be the perfect meal at your restaurants?
Cochon: a selection of small plates and sides and Catfish Courtbouillon and Rabbit & Dumplings to share; Herbsaint: gumbo, french fries and duck confit; Butcher: duck pastrami, salami and a cheese plate

Where are your favorite places to eat?
My favorite places in New Orleans are Lillette, La Boca, and Bayona; New York: Gramercy Tavern; San Francisco: Ton Kiang and Redd in Yountville; Chicago: anything by Paul Kahan

What's the most spectacular meal you've ever had?
At my Grandad's house — Rabbit and Dumplings

We love Real Cajun. What dishes epitomize Cajun cooking?
Gumbo or Chicken Sauce Piquant

How has the culinary scene changed in New Orleans changed pre and post Katrina?
The one thing that I think is better is that local farmers and fishermen have become more important. I have also seen a change in out-of-town diners heading towards restaurants that are not just in the French Quarter, getting a sense of the city as a whole.

What makes the food scene and cuisine of New Orleans so special?
Food is and always has been an important part of our culture. It is more of a way of life than you could possibly imagine.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Donald Link, Executive Chef/Owner, Herbsaint/Cochon/Butcher/Calcasieu

Donald Link

Recognized as one of New Orleans' preeminent chefs, Chef Donald Link began cooking in South Louisiana at a very young age. After years of experience working in Louisiana restaurants, Donald moved to San Francisco in 1993 where he attended the California Culinary Academy. In 1995, Chef Link pursued his externship at Susan Spicer's Bayona in New Orleans and continued on to become sous-chef.

In 1997, he returned to San Francisco to work with Loretta Keller at Bizou and Traci Des Jardins to open Jardinière and was later named Executive Chef at The Elite Café where he received rave reviews.

Chef Link returned to New Orleans in 2000 to open Herbsaint Restaurant, using quality ingredients and local produce to create regionally significant dishes. In the spring of 2006, following six months of delays due to Hurricane Katrina, Chef Link opened Cochon. Keeping true to his roots, Link keeps Cochon an authentic Cajun and Southern style restaurant featuring the foods and cooking techniques he grew up preparing and eating. In 2009, Chef Link opened Cochon Butcher — a wine bar and eatery specializing in housemade Italian and Cajun charcuterie — and Calcasieu, a private event facility.

In 2007, Chef Link was awarded "Best Chef: South" and Cochon was nominated as "Best New Restaurant" by The James Beard Foundation. In 2009, Chef Link published his first cookbook, Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link's Louisiana, which narrates family traditions of rice growing, sausage making and a chef exiled in the wake of Hurricane Katrina.

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