Expert Interview: Dean Fearing

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Fried chicken, green beans, mashed potatoes, and cherry pie were always my favorites. It was always a treat to pick what we wanted to have for our birthday meal and this is what I would have every year -- very Eastern Kentucky soul food!

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
My dad was an innkeeper so at a young age I was reporting to the inn after school and working in the kitchen on a daily basis. This early exposure helped me to decide what I wanted to pursue as a career. Once I got out of school I had the opportunity to learn about true gourmet cooking in the '70s from Harvey Colgin.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
A musician. Playing the guitar is still one of my strong passions! Chef Robert Del Grande and I now have a band, The Barbwires, and we play every opportunity we get. We're working on a second CD; we released our first one, "Bliss and Blisters," in August 2007.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
I had the opportunity to learn from Harvey Colgin, an apprentice to Escoffier and corporate chef for Hilton Hotels of the South Pacific. From him I started to learn the skill and method of what true cooking was all about.

How would you describe your cuisine?
Texas and Southwestern cuisine, and incorporating Texas' many farm-to-market specialties indigenous to our area.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
Bold Flavors! The tag of Fearing's is "Elevated American Cuisine -- Bold Flavors, No Borders." We have an approachable menu that creatively incorporates indigenous products and flavor combinations people will enjoy.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A sharp knife, a good cutting board, plus great pots and pans are must haves.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
All types of chilies. Texas has a rich variety of peppers: dried chilies, jicama, cilantro, tomatillos, etc. Often, I don't have to go far for new ideas and inspiration. Chilies are addictive, often once people start eating them they can't stop, so you could say that they are our secret ingredient because they keep people coming back!

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Always be professional and humble. These qualities will carry you through your whole career.

What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Passion and enthusiasm -- I will hire for these qualities over a great resume because I know from that I can mold them to be great in the kitchen.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Our fish dishes are a great option. Right now we have a Cast Iron Wild Black Bass on Gulf Lump Crab "Succotash" with Tabasco/Bacon Gastrique and Hushpuppy Red Shrimp on the menu. This dish has no cream or butter, but lots and lots of flavor!


What was your worst restaurant disaster?
Well, one of the biggest challenges that certainly could have ended in disaster was when Frank Sinatra came into the restaurant one night requesting that I make a family style spaghetti dinner for him, his wife Barbara, Sammy Davis Jr., Liza Minnelli and their whole entourage. He challenged me that it had to be good, which immediately made me break into a cold sweat. I raced around the kitchen to ensure everything was perfect. After serving the dinner to the table he later called me out and said it was one of the best spaghetti dinners he had ever had. At that point I knew that it was a success and my legs would not be broken by the "Godfather of Italian Cuisine!"

What is your beverage of choice?
Margarita, on the rocks and fine red wine

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
The return to more simple food -- comfort foods. In my case, true Southern foods that I saw years ago are making their way back on menus.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
I love to eat out and experience all kinds of restaurants but my favorite are barbecue dives. Sonny Bryan's Barbecue has been one of my favorite spots for years. We even use his sauce on one of our signature dishes, the Barbecue Shrimp Taco.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
In 1982 I ate at Alain Chapel's place in Mionnay, France and it was my first experience of true creative food with unbelievable taste and presentation like no other. I can still remember everything I had course by course.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Practice, practice, practice! Every good chef can tell you great tips for the kitchen, but I think what most people who cook at home don't get enough of is practice.

What do you eat when you are home?
I have two boys who are big eaters and have grown up with a chef as their father, so at this point they are my biggest critics. Everything has to taste great whether it is something easy like breakfast burritos or a big dinner. A lot of times we'll have comfort foods and things that are easy to do on the grill.


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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Dean Fearing, Chef/Partner, Fearing's

Dean Fearing

The creator of "Elevated American Cuisine -- Bold Flavors, No Borders" with his namesake restaurant Fearing's, chef/partner Dean Fearing has developed one of the hottest restaurant concepts across the country. Named "Restaurant of the Year" and "Table of the Year" by Esquire Magazine shortly after opening and No. 1 in Hotel Dining in the U.S. by Zagat just 15 months later, and receiving continued praise from The New York Times, Newsweek, Texas Monthly, Modern Luxury, among others, as well as a James Beard Foundation nomination for Best New Restaurant, Fearing's has created quite a buzz with distinct dining venues, a spectacular farm-to-market seasonal menu, and personal presence of Fearing himself. His personal vision and design, the lively, comfortable restaurant offers seven stylish dining settings, including the most distinctive alfresco experience in Dallas and a hugely popular interactive display kitchen offering ringside seating for true foodies.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he can be seen these days in Fearing's wearing a crisp white chef's coat with colorful boot embroidery, blue jeans and brightly-hued, custom-tooled Lucchese cowboy boots. When not in the kitchen, he is often found strumming his vintage Fender Telecaster guitar, one of an impressive collection, with his all-chef alternative country band The Barbwires, who released their first CD "Bliss and Blisters" in August 2007. The exuberant, ever-friendly Dean Fearing was winner of the James Beard Foundation Restaurant Award for "Best Chef in the Southwest." People across the country are raving about Fearing's signature dishes such as Dean's famous Tortilla Soup, the Barbecue Shrimp Taco, Rib Eye Mopped Over Live Mesquite, Maple-Black Peppercorn Soaked Buffalo Tenderloin, and Pan Roasted "BBQ Spiced" Filet and Chicken-Fried Maine Lobster, which has been described as "a taste of Texas," enlivening the sense of place that Fearing set out to create.

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