Expert Interview: Brian Ellis

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Growing up I was infatuated with eggs. I would eat eggs three times a day. When I would visit my grandparents, my grandfather would cook me a Three-Minute Egg in the morning, egg salad for lunch, and an omelet for dinner. Definitely overkill, but I'm still not sick of them yet. At The Smith we cook hundreds of eggs during our brunch service, so I guess this early obsession was good training.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
My career in food began at the local pizza joint in Northport, Long Island when I was fourteen. I would work after school washing dishes and making dough for the night service. Not the most romantic setting but I got a taste of how a kitchen is run, and it encouraged me to seek out a career in restaurants.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
Even if I wasn't a chef, my life would involve food in one way or another. I could see myself making wine or cheese or being a farmer.

How would you describe your cuisine?
At The Smith, we prepare familiar yet inspired American bistro dishes using seasonally-driven, local ingredients.

What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
I try to make dishes people immediately connect to but that also offer a unique spin or surprise element to straightforward comfort food. I think what makes The Smith's menu so successful is we include everyday dishes prepared in ways unique to the restaurant. So even though you have had something like Mac and Cheese countless times before, coming to The Smith you'll get an entirely new experience after biting into our version of this venerable American classic.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
My favorite weapons in the kitchen are dependable cooks and a trusty cake tester. Without these, you can have the best equipment in the world and your kitchen will still fail.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
My favorite secret ingredients are vinegars. Apple cider, balsamic, wine, white and rice vinegars all have their own unique properties and so many uses in cooking — they dress salads, tenderize and marinate meat, work as a salt substitute, reduce starch in pasta, add moistness to cakes. Honestly, there are endless chef tricks that involve a tablespoon or two of vinegar.

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
I try to instill the value of perseverance in my staff — making it through a service at The Smith is not a sprint but a marathon. The dining room and the private dining room can get packed, so my kitchen has to be ready to operate on all cylinders, preparing top-quality and consistent dishes for the entire duration of the service.

What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
I look for cooks who are respectful, eager to learn and ask for help when they need it.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
I recommend our salads or one of our seafood dishes as a go-to healthy option at The Smith. We prepare creative interpretations of traditional salads using local, market-driven produce. Right now I am particularly fond of our Shaved Roasted Pumpkin Salad or Avocado Salad with Chipotle Vinaigrette. For seafood, I suggest the Pot of Mussels; it is a richly flavored high-protein low-fat option and one our best selling items.

What was the most challenging meal you had to make?
My most challenging meal was when I had to cater an entire party for Armani in a hallway, cooking only with a bread proofer, sheet trays, and Sternos. It was a huge pain, but it turned out to be a success. Cooking for events and working as a private chef taught me how to improvise and work with almost any type of space or equipment, which are invaluable lessons no matter where you are cooking.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
My worst kitchen disaster involved slicing off the tip of my thumb while trying to separate frozen hamburgers with a very sharp chef's knife; it happened at my first cook job. I had no idea what I was doing. Even more, within a month, I put an oyster knife right through my palm. I learned quickly and painfully to respect the tools of the trade.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
The most pervasive trend to hit New York City dining is the emergence of reasonably priced, thoughtfully executed comfort foods. Even high-end restaurants are remodeling to incorporate bigger bars with simple, homey bar menus. I think Jane and The Smith have been focused on inspired yet familiar dishes since before it could be really called a trend — we just happen to have been making this style of food at the right time. Personally, I couldn't be happier with the movement; I am a big fan of simple, rustic cooking.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
When not eating at The Smith, my wife and I make a point to tour the city's Italian and Mediterranean restaurants. Marea is one of my current favorites. We spent our honeymoon in Italy, so we like to try to recreate that experience.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
In my cooking I try to take lessons from a broad range of different countries' cuisines. The great thing about being a chef these days is you don't have to specialize in a single style. I can take inspiration from Europe, South America, Asia, or the U.S. and incorporate elements of all these countries into a single menu.

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
I've had a few really inspiring meals but my most recent one was at Per Se. It was my second anniversary and they took such great care of us. The food, wine, and service was outstanding, they even put our names on the menu.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
The most important thing a home chef can do is use fresh ingredients and season their food correctly. With a little olive oil, salt, pepper, and occasionally garlic and shallots, you can pull off almost any dish.

What do you eat when you are home?
My wife and I love to eat at home and we'll usually prepare vegetables, fish or something as easy as a cheese plate. At The Smith we are known for our burgers, steaks and chicken potpie; but after a full day of cooking, I just want to come home to a light, simple meal.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Brian Ellis, Executive Chef, The Smith

Brian Ellis

Executive Chef Brian Ellis imaginatively interprets American bistro cuisine at the The Smith in NYC's East Village. After four years of running the kitchen as executive chef at partner restaurant, Jane, Brian Ellis took helm of the stoves at The Smith when it opened in 2007.

Ellis began his culinary education at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI. After graduating with a degree in Culinary Arts in 1999, he took a job as line cook at New York City's Beacon Restaurant where he began as garde manger and worked his way through all the kitchen stations under Executive Chef Waldy Malouf. In 2003, Ellis joined the kitchen staff at Brasserie 360 as sous-chef where he was instrumental in opening the restaurant that received two stars from The New York Times during his term.

At both Jane and The Smith, Ellis has collaborated with owner Glenn Harris on inventive dishes with free-range meats, poultry and seasonal, local and organic produce in addition to managing the kitchen teams.

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