Expert Interview: Billy Olivia
Executive Chef
What were your favorite foods growing up?
My mother's turkey dinner.
When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
When I was 13 years old.
Where and when did your career in food begin?
At my first summer job, in Fraunces Tavern.
If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
A race car driver.
Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
Through traveling I have had the opportunity to experience many different cuisines, which was very influential.
How would you describe your cuisine?
A: Classic American with a contemporary influence.
What influences your cooking style and particularly the menu at your restaurant?
The Culinary history at Delmonico's Restaurant and the desire to renew the old classics.
What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
The smoking gun and the Vita prep mixer.
What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Preserved Meyer lemon.
What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Quality and consistency.
What qualities to you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Knowledge and passion.
If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
The Halibut dish.
What was your worst restaurant disaster?
The blackout of 2003/Summer, no exhaust fans and cooking in the dark.
What is your least favorite food?
Overcooked food.
What is your beverage of choice?
Good American Cabernet.
What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Simplicity of ingredients.
When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
At as many different places as I can.
Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Spain.
What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
Multi -course meal at Charlie Trotter's Chicago.
What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Have fun and enjoy it!
What do you eat when you are home?
All the good stuff.
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Expert Profile

Billy Olivia
Executive Chef William Oliva bravely laughed in the face of child labor laws when he started working in the kitchen at twelve years of age. Enlisted into the business by his brother, William’s first restaurant job was at the Financial District’s Fraunces Tavern under Chef Guy Gautier, just blocks away from Delmonico’s. Shortly after, he took a position at Liberty Café with ex-Tao chef Sam Hazen and then landed at his brother’s restaurant Harbour Lights, working with John Loghran, previously of The River Café.
At Harbour Lights, Oliva worked his way up to sous-chef before transferring to the short-lived Longacre Square Steak House, where William delighted guests with signature entrees that illustrated his fine dining ambitions in the context of a steakhouse. At the time, Times Square had few gastronomic reasons for New Yorkers to venture into its confines, and Longacre’s owners decided to turn it into an outpost of venerable watering hole Rosie O’Grady’s. The pub fare was too timid for Oliva’s culinary ferocity, so he took off to Europe.
In West Cork, Ireland, Oliva took over The Baltimore Customs House where his $35 and $45 tasting menus garnered a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Europe exposed the chef to new flavor profiles and techniques, which he encountered on trips to Seville, London, and Southern Italy (Sicily, Capri, Rome). Armed with overseas experience, he left the tranquility of West Cork and settled back into his home state.
Now at Delmonico's, Oliva brings a globally-inspired, seasonal approach to the oldest restaurant in the country. Using organic and local ingredients whenever possible, chef Oliva has successfully incorporated items like Meyers beef, laughing bird shrimp and Five Spoke Creamery cheeses (from Porchester, NY) into his menus. In Ireland, Oliva had direct access to farmers, he once had to wait for a farmer's chicken to lay the last two eggs in an order, and he hopes to strike the same close relationships with his purveyors in NYC.













