Expert Interview: Belinda Chang

Behind the Wine Expert

When did you first become interested in wine?
Throughout a good portion of my childhood, there was a mysterious brown bottle of Lancer's Rosé that sat on the top shelf of our refrigerator at home. It taunted me for years. It was my first taste of wine and provided a definitive moment in my life. I definitely wanted more.

What brought you into the wine business?
I began my restaurant career at Café Annie in Houston working in the kitchen with Chef Robert Del Grande. I really did not like wearing white all the time, and it's hot in those kitchens. Black is more my color, so I moved to the front of the house where I could wear more black.

What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?
Ignore everyone else's opinions and only listen to one person — yourself! Drink what you like; don't let the snotty sommelier bully you into drinking what they want you to drink.

What are some of your favorite food and wine pairings?
The Modern's Chef Gabriel Kreuther's Cod with Chorizo with Finca Allende Rioja; Chef Laurent Gras' Lobster Cappucino (from the menu when we worked together at The Fifth Floor) with Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Ayguets; Chef Rick Tramonto's Parmesan Crusted Sweet Onions (from the menu at Osteria Via Stato) with Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto

Do you think any rules should be adhered to when pairing?
No! And I am pretty tired of the obsession over which wine is the "perfect" match for every dish on the 24-course tasting menu. Just serve me a bottle of something incredible!

Do you have a favorite varietal or region?
That changes about every millisecond! At this moment, as I am working for a chef from Alsace, I am pretty obsessed with all of the wines of Alsace.

What are some of the benefits of drinking wine?
You get to travel to another place and experience another culture without having to leave home!

If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
I am an equal opportunity drinker!

Do you have any favorite wine gadgets?
The classic waiter's corkscrew. Forget the rabbit, I am all about the free waiter's corkscrew in my pocket.

What wines should no home be without?
Champagne, preferably Salon "Le Mesnil" with a bottle age

What are your three best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
"What grows together, goes together."; forget about the old adage: "white wine with fish, red wine with meat"; drink what you like!

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Belinda Chang, Wine Director at The Modern

Belinda Chang

Belinda joined The Modern as Wine Director in November 2007. She previously served as Corporate Director of Wine and Spirits and Wine and Service Director for Chef Rick Tramonto's Chicago restaurants, including Osteria Via Stato and Osteria di Tramonto, where Food & Wine magazine designated her wine list one of the "Best New Wine Lists of 2007."

Belinda's first post as sommelier was at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago where she spent five years coordinating the restaurant's wine service. Belinda also appeared with Charlie on his television shows and authored the wine notes for his cookbook, Charlie Trotter's Meat and Game. She then served as General Manager and Wine Director working with Chef Laurent Gras at San Francisco's Fifth Floor, where her outstanding service attracted media attention and a nomination for the 2004 James Beard Foundation Award for "Outstanding Wine Service".

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