Expert Interview: Barbara Lynch

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
My mother's tuna fish sandwiches--she made the tuna salad with pickle juice.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
When I was 12 years old. I had my first job cooking for the priests at the local rectory and loved it.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
If I knew I wanted to cook when I was 12, I discovered I wanted to become a chef in my late teens when I worked at Boston's St. Botolph Club under Chef Mario Binello, an Escoffier-trained chef who introduced me to formal service and French cuisine.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
An artist

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
Several people. Mario Binello most definitely in the beginning and then, as I began cooking professionally, I got so much inspiration and information from great chefs and their cookbooks: Gualtiero Marchesi, Alain Ducasse, and Joel Robuchon have all had a huge influence on my cooking.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
A cryovac

What influences your cooking style?
My first love is Italian food and making pasta, so travel over the years and great chefs like Marchesi have definitely influenced my cooking. In general, reading cookbooks, eating at great restaurants around the world, my staff, the seasons and great ingredients. All of these things inspire my cooking style and the menus at my restaurants.


What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Honey

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Passion!

If I'm trying to watch my weight what should I order to eat?
I would say, head to Sportello. Begin with the shaved celery and fennel salad with lemon, extra virgin olive oil and parmigiano-reggiano. It's so crisp and refreshing--it's my favorite salad. Then I would order the chicken vegetable soup with cumin gnocchi and ask for extra veggies!

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
A few years ago we were asked to do a gala benefit dinner on the Boston Common for 400 people. Even though it was very close to No.9 Park, we still had to build an outdoor kitchen and create this amazing meal (including a soufflé for ten for each table) in this makeshift kitchen for the largest amount of guests to date. It turned out very well but there were some tense moments!

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
Probably a water main break on New Year's Eve a few years ago. It brought the night to a (temporary) stand still and we had to relocate our entire first seating on one of the busiest nights of the year.

What is your least favorite food?
Sardines

What is your beverage of choice?
I love a well made negroni

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Small plates are still really popular and counter seating in different formats seems to be a continuing trend.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, you are eating at?
Here in Boston I love Ana Sortun's Oleana and Sofra. Marco is great and Myers & Chang is another favorite.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Italy

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
At Gualtiero Marchesi's restaurant in Italy. I read and reread his cookbook so often over the years so it was such a thrill to finally taste his food..

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Break a recipe down into manageable steps and take the time to set up your mise en place. It makes the actual cooking process a lot easier (and more enjoyable). Also, use a sharp knife!

What do you eat when you are home?
When I'm home for a meal (which isn't often) I love making salads and big batches of soups.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Barbara Lynch, Chef, No. 9 Park

Barbara Lynch

James Beard-winner Barbara Lynch is regarded as one of Boston's, and the country's, leading chefs and restaurateurs. While growing up in South Boston, Barbara, at the age of 13, got her first kitchen job cooking at a local rectory. Today, Barbara is the chef/owner of Barbara Lynch Gruppo which is comprised of eight entities located in Boston: No.9 Park, B&G Oysters, The Butcher Shop, Plum Produce, Stir, 9 at Home, Drink, and Sportello. Barbara's talents have continued to garner numerous accolades over the years, both locally and nationally. In 1996 she was named "Best New Chef" by Food & Wine and in 2003, The James Beard Foundation named her "Best Chef Northeast". Barbara and her recipes have been featured in many publications including Food & Wine, Saveur, Boston Magazine, Bon Appetit, The New York Times, and Inc. magazine. In fall 2009, Barbara's first cookbook will be published by Houghton Mifflin.

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