Expert Interview: Anjoleena Griffin-Holst

Behind the Sommelier

When did you first become interested in wine? (When was your first taste? How was the experience?)
I was working in NYC and going to school and the Wine Director was asking a our class what we smelled and I began describing a memory of my great-grandfather's land in Mendocino. When I stopped I realized people were looking at me weird. The Wine Director told me I was a freak, I should go take and forget about pursuing a career in medicine. It was the best advice I've ever been given and I'm so glad I took it (thanks Chuck!)

What brought you into the wine business?
After taking the aforementioned wine course and being told I had a gift, I decided to take courses with the Court of Master Sommeliers. I am fortunate to have sat for the MS Exam last year and look forward to taking the rigorous 3-part exam again next year. I am very lucky to have found what I love to do!

Do you have a favorite varietal or region?
It would be hard to narrow it down. The world of wine is exploding and there are so many good wines out there. I liken that question to picking out a favorite pair of shoes. My husband still doesn't understand why I need so many black shoes, but they all serve a purpose, sort of like wine. Sometimes I want to be 4 inches taller and have a sexy attitude and other times I want to wear flat sandals. Please don't ask me to pair those with wine because I could get into real trouble here!

If you don't order wine at a restaurant or bar, which beverage do you choose?
I am on a gin kick at the moment, but I do love good scotch.

What's your best wine-drinking memory? What was the occasion?
I have been lucky enough to taste some of the finest wines in the world, but one stands out above the rest. Just as I was becoming more interested in wine I was kidnapped and taken to Paris by my (now) husband where he proposed. He is the King of surprises and would tell me little about what was next on the itinerary. We picked up some bread, cheese and a couple of cheap bottles of wine and got on a late train. We stayed up all night talking. I can't remember the name, but to me it remains the best wine I've ever had.

What are your thoughts on recent trends within the industry?
Everything is subjective in the world of wine. One person may find value in a $20 bottle, while another finds value in a $2,000 bottle. The best trend I've seen in the industry is the evolution of the consumer to learn more, not be afraid to ask questions and taste wines from everywhere.

What is the first thing someone learning about wine should know?
The first thing is to discover your own preferences. When I am in one of the restaurants as a floor sommelier I like to play with the customers. If I can find out what type of beverage they enjoy on a regular basis (coffee with cream, tea with lemon, diet soda, etc.) then I know which direction to move them on the wine list. The second this is to keep a sense of humor. There can be a serious side to wine, but at the end of the day, I recommend that people drink what they like and have fun with it.

What are some of your favorite food and wine pairings?
I am a big fan of Champagne with pretty much anything. Also, I think that more people should explore sake with food. The natural acidity in sake creates an affinity to food. Try it with sausages or cured meats and nutty cheeses.

The other thing I love recommending with cheese is Madeira (instead of port). The acidity of the Madeira cuts through the fat and flavor of the cheese and creates a mouth watering experience.

Do you think any rules should be adhered to when pairing?
I think that there are guidelines more than rules. You will have a more pleasant experience when you compare or contrast the basic flavors of the wine and the food. For instance a dish with citrus can be paired with a wine that has citrus aromas or flavors or with a wine that has a higher sugar content or give the perception of sweetness (the sweet n�¢ï¿½ï¿½ sour concept). I was doing a big tasting in a person�¢ï¿½ï¿½s home and discovered that the hostess recently underwent medical treatment and couldn�¢ï¿½ï¿½t taste much. The chef had made bold dishes and we picked out more pronounced wines to ensure that she had as memorable of an experience as her guests did.

What are some of the benefits of drinking wine?
There are so many great studies that prove that wine is good for the lungs, the heart, memory, digestion, etc. I believe that any time you can sit around a table with a great group of people, some great food and a bottle of wine, then it's been a good day. There is nothing better than raising a glass with people you care about—now THAT's good for the heart.

What wines should no home be without?
Bubbles! From the well known names in Champagne to Spanish, Italian and domestic sparkling wines, you should always have a cold bottle of bubbles around. You may just feel like celebrating the fact that it's Tuesday...

What are your three best tips, tricks or techniques for wine lovers?
Tip: When ordering wine in a restaurant without a sommelier or wine steward, look for the brands you usually enjoy then pick something other than the ones you know from the same category. Most wine lists are arranged by grape, region or style, so by trying this you may just find a new favorite wine.

Trick: Smell the wine from multiple places around the rim of the glass. One sniff only allows your brain to pick up a few things. When I train our servers and managers I remind them that dogs take a lot of short sniffs as they are picking up on scents. Every time I have people try it they are amazed at how much more they can smell.

Technique: When entertaining at home, take the white wine out of the fridge about 15 minutes before you serve it and put the red in the door of the fridge for about the same amount of time. We tend to drink our whites too cold and our reds too warm.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Anjoleena Griffin-Holst, Wine Director, Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa

Anjoleena Griffin-Holst

Anjoleena Griffin-Holst has held the prestigious position of Wine Director at Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa since March 2006. During her tenure, Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa has further established itself as the East Coast's leading dining destination and maintained an excellent reputation for its impressive wine selection, for which it recently received three separate "Excellence Awards" by Wine Spectator.

Griffin-Holst oversees the resort's vast wine cellar consisting of 36,426 bottles, representing 18 countries, and organizes all wine selections for Borgata Food & Wine Experience events. In addition to heading up the large team of sommeliers and assistant wine directors, Griffin-Holst trains all wine staff at Borgata's six fine dining restaurants, which include SEABLUE: A Michael Mina Restaurant, Wolfgang Puck American Grille and Bobby Flay Steak.

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