Expert Interview: Abe Hiroki

Behind the Executive Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
Whatever my mother cooked.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
When I was a boy. My dad is a sushi chef and I grew up in his kitchen.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
I began washing dishes at age 11.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
School teacher.

Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?
My father.

How would you describe your cuisine?
Home-style Japanese cuisine.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
My yanagi (sashimi knife) with an ebony handle.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Homemade dashi

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
Promptness for work.

What qualities do you look for when hiring cooks for your restaurant?
Character is more important than skill. I can teach skills.

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Freshly made warm tofu.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
We were boiling alcohol for a dish and it lit on fire. The Ansul system went off and we had to close the restaurant for that day and the next day.

What is your least favorite food?
Blueberries

What is your beverage of choice?
Coca-Cola

When you are not eating at your own restaurant, where are you eating?
Kyoya

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
When I was a cook at Nansui Kaku in Fukuoka which is an onsen (Japanese Hotspring / Spa), my chef was grilling Fugu Shirako (Blowfish Sperm) and dropped it on the floor. I got to taste it and it still is the best bite of food I have ever tasted in my life.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
If you cook with it with love, anything can taste yummy.

What do you eat when you are home?
I never cook at home. I get bored cooking at home so I like to eat other people's food on my days off.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Abe Hiroki, Executive Chef, EN

Abe Hiroki

Growing up in Fukuoka, Japan, Abe Hiroki and his family lived above his father's sushi restaurant, introducing Hiroki to the culinary world at an early age. He loved watching his father at work and, at the age of 12, he joined him in the restaurant's kitchen. The young Hiroki was determined to one day master the various Japanese cooking techniques that he observed.

After graduating from high school, Hiroki attended culinary school in Fukuoka for a year. He then worked as a prep cook at the popular Fukuoka restaurant Nansuikaku Onsen, where he sharpened his craft for the next two years. Seeking a new challenge, Hiroki accepted a position as sushi chef at the restaurant Hamanoya, where he learned the art of sushi preparation.

Hiroki moved on to a sous chef position at Shipoya Kazu to broaden his skill set at this restaurant that specializes in beef dishes. After learning how to properly cook beef, Hiroki transitioned to Nakano Hama, where as sous chef, he oversaw the proper execution of the restaurant's traditional Japanese dishes.

In 2001, after six years of working in various Japanese kitchens, Hiroki made the decision to move to New York City to experience a foreign culinary culture in a city known for its restaurants. Once Hiroki settled into his new home, he accepted a sous chef position at Jun in Manhattan. During his time there, he worked alongside the executive chef to apply Japanese preparations to freshly caught seafood.

Three years later, Hiroki was introduced to Reika Yo, owner of EN Japanese Brasserie, with whom he shared a passion for bringing authentic Japanese cuisine to New Yorkers. Hiroki felt that the restaurant would be a good fit for him and the extensive menu would allow him to showcase his range of techniques. He started as the restaurant's chef de cuisine before Yo appointed him executive chef in the spring of 2009.

Hiroki serves a vibrant menu at EN, using the finest seasonal ingredients to create a modern take on traditional Japanese dishes. With options such as braised Berkshire pork belly in sanshi miso and sea urchin egg custard, Hiroki challenges and expands guests' perceptions of Japanese food. He also enjoys visiting the Greenmarket to source fresh vegetables to incorporate into menu items such as the signature housemade tofu. When not at EN, Hiroki spends his time fishing and playing cards with friends. On his days off, he also serves as guest chef at other New York restaurants such as Eleven Madison Park, which gives him the opportunity to learn from and exchange ideas with his colleagues.

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