Napa Valley is a wine lover's paradise and is practically synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon. This grape thrives in the warm climate and with varied growing terrains in the region, Napa terroir notes range according to the land, from the fertile valley to the rocky mountainsides.
Robert Craig pioneered and changed mountain winemaking in the area with his Hess Collection in the 1980's, and now after thirty years of winemaking, he is gaining plenty of praise for his four signature mountain Cabernets — Affinity, Mount Veeder, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain. His 2006 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is grown on Craig's 26-acre, single vineyard of the southwestern Napa mountain range.
Its high elevation and mountainous terrain result in a wine that is rich in fruit and high in alcohol (14.8%!). Due to the less lush terrain, the grape produces less wine (in this case, 1700 cases) and fruitier flavor. This Bordeaux-style blend is 81% Cabernet and 19% Merlot yielding a fruit-forward wine of intense black fruit and soft tannins.
The wine is 20-month French Oak aged providing a taste of cedar and mocha, rounding out the fruit. Its dark berry and oak flavors would lend itself well to a pairing of duck, lamb, game and fall-appropriate dish like pork and spiced apples. I would also pair the wine with softer, earthy, stinky cheeses like Gorgonzola, bleu cheese and Camembert to balance out the fruit forwardness. While this wine is well structured and balanced, the wine is still young, so I would not recommend drinking the wine now or decanting (which I thought was a good idea to loosen its heat). However, this is a great drinking wine and great for those looking to sample Cabernet Sauvignon (not heavy in tannin, earthiness or spice) and the different terroir notes of Napa Valley.
Iron Chef, Food Network personality and Master of the Grill, Bobby Flay opened Bar Americain at Mohegan Sun this month. His tenth location and second Bar Americain, the new 276-seat spot will be situated right off of the hotel's lobby. The new location fuses American heritage with European flair while drawing inspiration from the area's Native American culture.
The menu is an American culinary road trip: Flay plays on traditional New England flavors with Crispy Connecticut Oysters and Crème Fraiche Chowder and Bacon Relish, makes a detour to the South for Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Honey and Pink Peppercorns, and brings on the Southwestern heat with Native American Taco with BBQ Duck, Cranberry and Red Chile. Sweet classics such as Sweet Potato Pie and Granny Smith Apple Tart round off the menu. And no one will go thirsty—glasses are filled from an extensive list of bourbons, a rotating menu of American cocktail classics created by Laurence Kretchmer and a vast wine list.
For Mohegan Sun visitors who can't get enough Flay, Bobby's Burger Palace is also on site.
Bar Americain
Mohegan Sun
1 Mohegan Sun Blvd.
Uncasville, CT 06382 www.baramericain.com
November 7, half a dozen New Yorkers rose very early, hopped in a car, and headed down to Afton, Virginia. The target? The sixth annual Oyster Festival at Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery: a holy trinity of wine, oysters and unbeatable fall surroundings.
Beautifully set in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Cardinal Point is a 15-acre vineyard, owned and operated by the Gorman family. It boasts a variety of wines, including some fantastic signature blends. Our drink of choice for the day was Cardinal Point's 2008 A6—a blend of Viognier and Chardonnay, marked by rich fruit and a bright finish. Sipped under a cloudless sky and fall's changing leaves, it was the perfect accompaniment to an oyster extravaganza.
While local bluegrass bands rocked in the background, attendees danced and drank and dove into raw, steamed and fried Barcat Oysters—large, super-satisfying oysters with a full-bodied taste and crisp finish—all from the Chesapeake Bay region and courtesy of Rappahannock River Oysters.
With a history dating back to 1899, today, Rappahannock River Oysters is run by cousins Travis and Ryan Croxton—the great grandsons of founder James Arthur Croxton, Jr. A few years ago, when the youngest generation told their grandfather they wanted to reopen the family business, he answered, "When the Chesapeake Bay oyster business was good, it was great, but when it was bad, it was devastating. Find another venture boys."
Instead, the two dedicated themselves to celebrating the best of the Chesapeake Bay's offerings—Rappahannocks, Stingrays, Snow Hills and Olde Salts—and putting Virginia oysters back on the map, with methods of oyster farming that overcome much of the damages made to the area in the 1980s and '90s from pollution and over-farming of wild oysters. In the process, they've even earned a Food & Wine Magazine "Tastemaker's Award," an honor given each year to top young talents who've changed the world of food and wine by age 35.
About five minutes into the Oyster Fest, I was feeling incredibly spoiled. About three hours in, all stress had melted away and perfection was near. And in the final moments—looking around at the vineyard, enjoying the last sip, that final shuck and the sun setting behind the mountains—I knew this had become my new favorite annual trip.
Next year I suggest you do the same.
Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery
9423 Batesville Road
Afton, Virginia 22920
540.456.8400 www.cardinalpointwinery.com
**To learn more about Rappahannock River Oysters, visit their website, or check out Ryan and Travis on the Emmy-nominated, James Beard Award-winning PBS series Chef's Afield, episode "Olde Salts. Young Guns."
So whatever happened to the New York summer, now you see me...now you don't? I figured the best way to come to terms with Fall and the impending Winter weather was to get up and go out to enjoy what New York nights have to offer.
Monday night we went to Daniel. Brilliant. If only they could package the "Daniel experience" it would be so much easier to give out samples than trying to capture its beautiful essence in words. Having said that, let's pray they don't go the Payard way of shutting the restaurant and doing catering! By the way, pairing Montepulciano with the meal made it even better, next time he is in town I've got to get a case.
Tuesday night happened to be Brasserie. Reminds me of the quintessential New York cougar who got a facelift and tons of Botox. Along the way it lost its je n'est ce qoi. Food has become a diner like experience, is this what happens when you live in New York too long...
Wednesday night we sat for a cozy meal with the folks from Gonzo. Sometimes simplicity and comfort is best. My only issue was to try to move from the Italian wines to the French. Maybe it's just me but, it's so much harder to appreciate the nuances of the Italians than the French...!
Thursday night we ventured to The Standard Grill. Wait, are those pennies lining the floor? Reminds me of my previous blog, where we chided the high(er) end fusion eateries for using cheap wooden chopsticks (and being penny foolish). Here the pennies were not wasted and the food is actually quite good. The steak, sea food and sides are great but, the dessert allows them to seal the deal. It is, after all, Meatpacking and you need to indulge.
Friday late night at Plunge. Foodie or not, I need to get some home cooked meal in me! But, since I promised to get up and go out, I make it to Meatpacking for drinks, well even if it's the Bridge and Tunnel fiefdom! Is that why they need to get the credit cards as soon as you sit down? I guess premium liquor served with such great views of Manhattan (even on a rainy night) gives you some degree of freedom. Thankfully the rain has kept the crowd thinner and the din somewhat bearable.
Saturday we went to Abe & Arthur's. Vegetarians will have a hard time as there is really no choice for them. Fish special was fresh, full of flavors and quite yummy. Sliders were good but came bloody so left me wondering if that was decided based on my entree order or if they come like that? Steak's cut and temperature was great but, on sauces, if you are craving Au Poivre (disagreement with kitchen not withstanding), I would stick with Le Charlot. Overall the meal was good, staff very friendly, bussing maybe a tad too attentive, and the ambience very pleasing. Interesting detail to see the entire staff wearing converse sneakers!
Okay, so, I may still not be all ready for the winter but, at least it was a good excuse for a wonderful adventure.
Daniel
60 East 65th Street
New York, NY 10065
212.288.0033
The Standard Grill
848 Washington Street
New York, NY 10014
212.645.4100
Plunge
Hotel Gansevoort Rooftop
18 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10014
877.426.7386
Abe & Arthur's
409 West 14th Street
New York, NY 10014
646.289.3930
Le Charlot
19 East 69th Street
New York, NY 10021
212.794.6419
Thurs night at the Standard and it seemed like a raving party. Photographers, Gossip Girl and oodles of dress down corporates mingling. In contrast to the dining room, the bar scene gave new meaning to Citysearch's category of vibrant. However it all translated to high energy and good times.
A quick pan of the room and I recognized my server—that surely equates to the fact that I eat out way more than my confessions to the nutritionist. The fare was fresh, innovative and tasty. Yogurt-marinated haricot verts topped with toasted shallots. Fresh oysters—large, fresh oysters. A Moroccan spiced swordfish so tender it slipped down my palate with hints of cumin and coriander.
A smile from across the room and I recognized a friend who helped open Rouge Tomate. Everything was so impressive. There wasn't a fault to be found. I guess that's the industry norm—a year here and a year there. But great service spurs the industries potential.
Tall stiff Grey Goose & Soda with a juicy rib eye and everyone at the table was content. So many desserts—colossal desserts arrived all complementary. Gifts from my old friend. Licking the dark chocolate mousse off the rubber spatula's was symbolic of time well spent and most enjoyed. Enjoyed with friends and family.
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