Behind the Burner Blog

January 4, 2009 2:42 pm

Kaya's Tropical Tastes in Wintry Weather

Pittsburgh, the city I hail from, offers much more than NFL football and the famous Primanti Brothers' sandwiches stuffed to the brim with French fries and all. Riding the Gateway Clipper ferry across this 3 Rivers city to Heinz Field, my sister Gena, her boyfriend Adam and I enjoyed cold I.C. Lights. It was probably the worst beer ever, but a tradition when visiting my hometown. After watching what seemed like an effortless win for our Steelers over the Cleveland Browns, we headed back across the river and out on the town for a warm meal much deserved after a chilly day of football. The historic Strip District of Pittsburgh was our destination, where the freshest ethnic ingredients in the city can be found at reasonable prices and restaurants like Lidia's leave you in a state of "Happy Buddha" rubbing your tummy endlessly.

Jogging my memory for the name of a delightful restaurant I had much enjoyed years past, Kaya finally emerged. How could I forget Kaya? (Not the Bob Marley song, although you may hear his music in the background of this dimly lit, Caribbean-South American inspired restaurant.) It was at Kaya that I had my first ever Caipirinha, the signature drink of Brazil and currently my favorite cocktail, and was ready for another.

The décor tropical. Large jungle green tables, carved wooden masks, and colorful paintings adorning the brick walls. Groovy installations hang from the ceiling creating an aesthetic composition of shadow and light over the dark wood bar and palm tree stools that line the entire left side of the restaurant. Being a rock music aficionado, I was even pleased by Kaya's music selection, which ranged from Kings of Leon to Ben Harper. It was time for a cocktail -- hmm, Brooklyn Lager or Magic Hat no. 9? I wanted something fresh with citrus. "A Caipirinha" and the server looked as me with a special smile.

Enjoying our Caipirinhas mixed with muddled lime, sugar, rum and caçhaca, we consulted our waiter for recommendations, who was knowledgeable, helpful and handsome. Kaya's food turned out to be just as vibrant as its décor with a menu created by Executive Chef Danielle Cain that is refreshed almost daily. After some deliberation, we chose the Calamari with chayote squash, radicchio, coconut, peanuts, and sesame-banana vinaigrette along with the Avocado Tempura with spicy aioli, chili soy and pepper relish for our "tropas" (tropical tapas) as Kaya calls them. Calamari is usually a hard sell for Gena and me because of our Italian heritage, and unfortunately Kaya's was mediocre. While having a chewy bite and pleasant flavor from the radicchio, the calamari was soggy due to the excessive amount of dressing. The Avocado Tempura literally melted in my mouth. A perfect balance of creaminess from the aioli and spice from the chili soy sauce. This was a faultless combination of textures. The citrus in the Caipirinha also layered well with the mouthwatering flavor of this tropa, and we were left yearning for another bite.

Kaya has a wide selection of dishes suited for both vegans and vegetarians. We decided on meat and fish to comfort our raging hunger. The Tilapia Fish Tacos with cabbage slaw, avocado, spicy crème fraîche, cilantro and tortillas were in my sister's words, "the best fish tacos I've ever had". The breading and cilantro weren't overpowering. The mild fish flavor was topped off with a robust taste of the spicy crème fraîche. The Jerked Chicken Breast with Manchego cheese grits, pico de gallo, grilled zucchini, and tomato vinaigrette combined an array of both textures and flavors. Not being a big fan of zucchini, I was surprised when I took a bite and it wasn't soggy, but grilled to a crisp consistency. The Manchego cheese grits slipped down our palates cooling the Jerk spice of the chicken. All this called for a Magic Hat no. 9 - hints of apricot sapor and an aroma so intoxicating. The choice entrée at Kaya that evening was the Spice Crusted Pork Tenderloin with brussel sprouts, plantain mash, warm habanero-bacon mojo, and horseradish gremolata. Zesty with hints of horseradish, habanero, and cumin, this juicy pork dish finished with a tinge of salt from the bacon while the plantains added sweetness to the fiery flavor. Gena, Adam, and I are usually black pepper addicts; however, we didn't even have to pick up the shaker at Kaya. That says it all about the seasoning of these succulent dishes! Comfortably full from our appropriately portioned dishes, we decided to skip dessert and head back to Station Square for a night cap.

Although the Steelers victory was the most exciting aspect of the weekend for me, our visit to Kaya comes in a close second. Bob Marley's lyrics, "Got to have Kaya now" reverberated through my mind. (Although I'm fairly certain he wasn't referring to the restaurant.) Too bad I'm back in Brooklyn! Soon I'll return home to Pittsburgh and relish the exotic food and atmosphere of Kaya again...hopefully when the Steelers make it to the Super Bowl this year!

Christina Licata

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January 2, 2009 1:17 pm

Todd and Eva's Beso Adds Shine to Tinseltown

Heading home to my native Southern California for Christmas always gives me a healthy dose of sunshine as well as the chance to check out new restaurants in the City of Culinary Angels. When my childhood friend, Mary, asked me where I wanted to eat, I didn't hesitate to suggest Beso, a Nuevo Mexican collaboration spearheaded by renowned restaurateur Todd English and actress Eva Longoria Parker. We had heard mixed reviews, but I am a huge Todd English fan so we decided to give it a chance and form our own opinion.

Beso is located on the legendary Hollywood Boulevard. Although I'm a native Angeleno, I still grin every time my stilettos hit the Hollywood Walk of Fame--so much Tinseltown history! Hence, I was beaming when I approached the formidable doorman. His serious demeanor made me feel like I was back in New York, getting ready to hustle my way past the velvet rope. I'm easily over 6 feet tall in my Jil Sander heels, but I still had to look up at the giant while I assured him that I had a reservation before I inquired about parking in the loading zone where I had ditched my car. Definitely an ice breaker as we commiserated about being ripped off by valets and expensive parking tickets--a topic that all Angelenos can relate to.

Once inside, my jaw dropped at the massive size and beauty of the restaurant. I found Mary near the hostess counter, looking up at the ceiling, admiring the chandeliers. After exchanging hugs and compliments (I don't know how she walks in those 6 inch Dolce Gabbanas, but they made her legs look beyond fabulous), we were whisked to our table where we settled into our cushiony leather chairs and agreed that Beso gets an A plus for design. Mary pointed out the enormous branch infused floral arrangements and commented that she would incorporate something similar if she were to plan her wedding over. Her statement spoke volumes as her wedding was a perfectly executed affair to remember at the Biltmore Hotel complete with imported Russian and Persian performers. The two floor Beso is spacious, the dramatic open kitchen gives diners a peak as their dishes are artfully prepared, and by looking up to the second floor one can see the entrance to the red leather lounge that is connected to the restaurant, but run by promoters when not rented for private parties or being used by Todd and Eva.

We sipped our pinot grigio and studied the parchment paper menus. I ordered Eva's Tortilla Soup as an appetizer while Mary chose the Roasted Red and Yellow Beet Salad with goat cheese fundido and sherry walnut dressing. The presentation was impressive, my soup was in a large bowl with a smear of avocado leading from the edge of the bowl down into the food. The soup had a nice combination of spices, rich tomato and crunchy tortilla strips. Mary's salad was laid out beautifully, the beets were fresh and crisp and the goat cheese rich and decadent. For my entrée, I decided to play it safe and get a protein fix with the Grilled free-range Chicken that came with banana gnocchi. The chicken was perfect and the banana gnocchi was interesting. I had never consumed a banana in such a form. It had a sweetness to it that you wouldn't expect in a gnocchi. I ate a few pieces to offset the flavor of the chicken and spices. Mary had the 8 0z Petit Filet, which was properly cooked and accompanied with a diced tomato onion salsa with crispy pita chips mixed in. The crunch of the chips combined with the salsa and meat was an appropriate fit. Full from our meals and concerned about our excessive Christmas food consumption from the past few days, we made the unusual decision of skipping dessert. I've since learned that the desserts at Beso are amazing. Next time!

As Mary told me that she will come again and bring her husband, I glanced around the room to make some final conclusions about the vibe. Beso's decor is breathtaking, the food is fabulous and the crowd is very L.A. --an ethnic melting pot, young, hip and dressed casually. Unlike the suits in New York, the guys at Beso were in jeans, tight t-shirts to show off their toned bodies and tennis shoes. I laughed as I sipped my pinot and watched the animated guy with spiked hair at the next table. You never know, he might be on the big screen with Brad Pitt next month. As I once heard Bono point out during a U2 concert at Staples Center, "L.A. is the city where people make a living off of their dreams." The energy and pulsating music in Beso creates a positive atmosphere where all aspiring artists can feel at home. "Beso" translates to "kiss" in Spanish and after enjoying a delicious meal with my dearest friend, I happily blew a beso to the doorman on my way out to my car which was waiting for me safely in the loading zone.

Caroline Alexa McBride

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December 31, 2008 10:39 am

Tis the Season to be Baking...

As the temperature outside drops, all the lights are hung on the lampposts and the department store windows and I see passersby bundled up with scarves, thick mittens and cozy hats, I think to myself, the way to warm me up is in my kitchen.

I love the holidays and the best thing to me about the holidays is the food. There is food everywhere. At your local supermarket, they are giving away free samples. Gift baskets and other goodies are being delivered to your house from well-wishers of the season. Your office Christmas parties seem to never end and the constant flow of comfort food extends from every department. It's overwhelming but it's definitely a reminder of the impending holiday season.

Every year, my daughter and I do some serious baking in our own kitchen and provide goodie bags for all of our loved ones (and also, sneak a few for ourselves). On the menu this year, traditional cut-out cookies, peanut butter kiss cookies, five layer squares, peppermint chocolate fudge and homemade truffles. So after a mad dash to the supermarket which was swarming due to the impending snow storm, we hunkered down and pulled out our warmest PINK sweats and fuzzy slippers and dedicated ourselves to an afternoon of warmth, comfort and baking. As soon as the first batch of cookies get going, the smell and heat from the oven warms the entire house.

It was our first time working with chocolate for the truffles so I was a little nervous. But I remembered some of the tips, tricks and techniques from Behind the Burner and assured myself that I could do it too. I made sure to use a double boiler and after the truffles were chilled, I left them to warm to room temperature before serving them with some nice red wine. Oh, what a night! Cookies, chocolate and wine.

After spending five hours in the kitchen, I was ready to settle in but I couldn't help but feel a small bit of sadness that my baking for the holiday season was over. So, I spent the next week baking pies and cakes for my family's Christmas parties. So, the new year has arrived and I look forward to my baking again in 11 months!

Jennifer Ambrose

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December 31, 2008 10:12 am

Add a Little Riot to Your Diet

I met Sarah Endline through a friend and fellow Harvard Business School alum. Those HBS women--they're always networking :-) They are also always eating :-)

After a little searching on Google, I realized that Sarah was not only making yummy treats, but actually trying to make the world a better place--one sweetriot at a time. She sources her cacao directly in Latin America (who would have guessed?) Better yet, she uses recyclable packaging, which features some of the most talented emerging artists. Here's the best part: sweetriot is made by only using all-natural, healthy ingredients for their dark chocolate 'peaces.' Who would have thought sinning with sweets could be eco-friendly and healthy at the same time. No wonder why Sarah Jessica Parker and Eva Longoria Parker love them!

In case you didn't know, cacao beans come from cacao fruit trees commonly found in South America and Central America. After the beans are cleaned, roasted and shelled, the nibs of the beans remain. Sweetriot nabs the nibs in their natural, unprocessed state and dunks 'em in dark chocolate to balance their naturally bitter flavor. The result is a lightly (but not overly) sweet nugget with a teeny crunch. Not only are they full of antioxidants, but they're packed with so-called bliss chemicals such as anandamide, and phenylethylamine (PEA), which is released when you're in love and helps you to stay focused.

In this video, we share some of magic behind the sweetriot. This shoot was quite an experience with tons of New York epicures bumping into us while searching for their favorite ingredients at Zabars. Life is busy and I do a lot of my eating on the go. sweetriot is the perfect quick snack; a healthy pleasure rather than a guilty one.

When Sarah showed us how she satisfies sweet cravings one sweetriot at a time, we were instantly addicted. Sweetriots have become a favorite snack at the behind the burner office--they sure satisfy our sweet cravings and keep us in a good mood even when we're up late writing and editing each other's work!

These yummy cacao nibs can be your very own treat for your purse, briefcase, man bag (if you so fancy), suitcase, car and everywhere else you desire.

On a personal note, it has been a pleasure getting to know Sarah; she is a passionate and socially responsible entrepreneur who has all it takes to run a successful business.

We've joined the sweetriot. Now, it's your turn.

Divya Gugnani

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December 26, 2008 6:18 pm

The Curse of Avenida

Avenida is not an ancient hex created by a witch doctor in the jungle of South America. It's a quaint Mexican place on Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich, Connecticut. Avenida opened about a year ago, and was all the rage in the area. The plethora of patrons created hardly enough space to even enter through the restaurant doors. However, the Avenida of the past, despite the number of guests, had cuisine that was less than thrilling or appetizing. With the reopening of Avenida, I hoped this time the food would live up to the crowds it created in the past.

Returning to Avenida, I experienced the same bold décor reminiscent of southern Miami style with a bright orange tin ceiling offset by warming, dark furniture. Tile walls reflected the bath of light from the exposed bulbs hanging from the ceiling. The atmosphere of Avenida was just how I remembered, except for one tiny detail; there were hardly any people! Hopefully the food didn't follow suit.

I started with the Guacamole and homemade tortilla chips, as it was the best dish in the past. One taste and I began to worry. It was missing the citrus flavor that once worked so delightfully, but I decided to move on and not write Avenida off yet. Fortunately, I didn't because the Mahi Mahi tacos with red cabbage slaw and chipotle aioli were delicious! The fish, albeit a bit soggy, had a fiery mix of spices. I also sampled the Chicken quesadilla with cilantro crema and pico de gallo, which is always a safe bet at any Mexican restaurant. For the perfect end of the evening, I enjoyed some flan, which was both creamy and fruity. The best dessert by far was the churros, long fried dough dipped in chocolate. A wave of nostalgia came over me with each bite being that I delighted in my fair share of churros while spending time in Punta Del Este, Uruguay. One taste returned me to South America and sunlight.

Although the people were scarce that evening, the food surpassed the Avenida of the past immeasurably. Which is better, big crowds or big food? Perhaps the curse of Avenida will be lifted when Greenwich looks over the restaurant's past food follies, and this bold Mexican restaurant will have the best of both worlds. You may not go to Avenida for the bustling crowd, the mediocre margaritas, or even the food, but you should at least go to experience the nighclub-like restrooms. Walk in, shut the door, and you'll understand.

Divya Gugnani