February 23, 2009 4:04 pm

When Honey Met Cheese

Behind the Burner: When Honey Met Cheese

I never thought their paths would cross, but when they did, it was love at first bite.

Weddings often bore me, but the marriage of honey and cheese nearly made me weep like fresh mozzarella. When I arrived at Artisanal for the big event, masters of ceremony Erin Hedley and Marina Marchese guided our group to the adjacent classroom, where the celebratory goodies awaited us: wine, platefuls of cheese slabs too irresistible to snub, and of course, mini metal cups of honey.

A teacher's pet through high school and college, I in sat the front row. I thought I'd give the cheese-honey combo the Simon Cowell scowl. I couldn't; each bite of cheese, honey and wine hit all the right notes.

Within 90 minutes, Hedley transformed me into a cheese whiz, while Marchese's honey lecture added a touch of sweetness to the evening. I certainly pocketed some valuable pointers; I can't wait to share them with you.

Did you know the first cheese was molded out of baked earth nearly 2800 years ago? This precious protein source, once considered a commodity, was forgotten in the dark ages. Thankfully, Romans later re-discovered local cheeses such as Cheshire in England, blues of Frances Massif Central and mountain cheeses from the Alps.

I was lucky enough to sample some of the finest cheeses from Artisanal, arranged on my plate in a lovely wheel. Here are my favorites:

Pecorino Balze Volteranne with Clover Honey—Raw organic pecorino from Tuscany made with vegetable rennet of wild artichoke, aged in oak barrels for 60 days, rind covered in oak and olive wood ash. With its unique green flavor and long finish, it has an affinity for red wines. A drizzle of sweet, flowery clover honey balances out the sharp, earthy bite of the pecorino.

Did you know? Pecorino has the most protein, minerals and fat, and is more expensive because sheeps' milk production level is lower.

Piave with Goldenrod Honey—This Italian cow's milk cheese is similar to Parmigiano Reggiano and has a slight butterscotch-caramel note. Erin Hedley prefers it with toasted bread and brown sugar—a wonderful breakfast cheese.

Doddington with Creamed Honey—Created at the Doddington Dairy in Northumberland England, this crumbly cheese has a hazelnut undertone and is a bit reminiscent of Gouda (which is actually pronounced, "howda" rather than "goo-duh"). Great with a merlot or zinfandel. The smooth, viscous creamed honey is both sweet and spicy—an ideal partner for the salty, dry Doddington.

Barely Buzzed with Buckwheat Honey—Probably the most brilliantly pungent and eye-opening cheese I sampled, this one is crafted by Tim Welsh and Pat ford at the Beehive Dairy in Utah. With a blend of espresso and lavender in the rind, it emits an uplifting, earthy mocha flavor. Talk about a wake-up call. It's also great with beer. Honey pair: dark, molasses-like buckwheat honey that carries a hint of plum and cherry.

Visit our Classes page and check out other courses from Artisanal.

*Stay tuned for the featured promotion and story behind Red Bee Honey™


-Danielle Travali

— Written by Danielle Travali

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User Comments

I recently went to an Italian restaurant where we tried an Antipasti with prosciutto, a light goat cheese and honey. Oh dear god the marriage of honey and cheese is one that will never result in divorce. Wonderfully written arictle!!

posted Feb 26 2009 12:51 PM by BehindtheBurner

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