January 27, 2009 12:40 pm

Valentine's Day for Beginners

The last time I went on a Valentine's Day date, I was a sophomore in college. We shared a box of Franzia rose` in my dorm then went to a notoriously bad but appropriately named Italian restaurant, Valentino's. Over a plate of mozzarella sticks, he presented me with a box of Spongebob Squarepants-themed chocolates and a poem scribbled on a scrap of memo paper. The poem combined disturbing elements of Dr. Seuss and a Harlequin Romance Novel. The waiter spilled a carafe of ice water down my dress. And, finally, when I thought it couldn't get any worse, the combination of Franzia and red sauce caused some kind of combustive reaction in my digestive tract that left me with the worst heartburn I have ever experienced.

Needless to say, the evening left much to be desired. In fact, I feel like I can only move up. This February, I would happily eat three courses at the neighborhood Mexican place (can you call it a tasting menu if it starts with complimentary salsa and ends with a mango margarita?). Luckily, though, New York boasts so many cozy, romantic eateries that I might not have to settle for a mariachi band and heart-shaped flan.

Bobo is at the top of my list. Nestled in a West Village brownstone, everything about this restaurant charms and delights. From the candle-lit bar room downstairs to the glowing, glass-bead chandeliers and Parisian flea-market décor in the dining room, the atmosphere is warm and bohemian (and, most importantly, a far, far cry from the red-checkered tablecloths at Valentino's). The offerings on the menu evoke a similar sensuality. A simple roast beet salad with feta and ginger pistachios followed by Muscovy duck with date puree make a meal that is hearty and comforting without being overly decadent. I would be equally satisfied if my (hypothetical) Valentine scored us a spot at The Waverly Inn. Because it is such an epic feat of endurance to get a table, the reservation alone would say "I love you".

While I'm a novice, I realize that some people have established traditions with their significant others. For them, the answer is a night out at one of New York's big ticket restaurants. Perhaps the most classically romantic of these old stalwarts is Tavern on the Green. With its spectacular glass-walled Crystal Room and a refined menu constructed by Chef Brian Young, the historic New York City restaurant is the perfect place to share a plate of oysters and sip champagne with your (non-hypothetical) Valentine.

This February 14th, the restaurant will offer two menus-one that includes a bottle of champagne and a table in the Crystal Room and another with a glass of champagne and seating in the regular dining room. Your choice, I suppose, depends on how much you want to spend or how drunk you expect to get-both important considerations on Valentine's Day. Yet, the magic doesn't stop there. They will also play cupid-booking musicians, hiding jewelry in frisee salads and spelling out sweet nothings in chocolate fondant. Just make sure you alert the staff (and confirm that your date isn't the type that will be horrified and humiliated by a private serenade from a string quartet).

At this point, there are issues to address. First, I know that it may ruin the fantasy, but let's talk about the economy. Don't get me wrong. I fervently believe that truffles, champagne and caviar are the essence of Valentines Day. That whole "love" thing? Talk to me after dessert. But, this year, it looks increasingly unlikely that a knight in grey flannel will ride in on his hedge fund, ready to take you out for a five-hundred dollar tasting menu somewhere in the Time Warner Center. This year, maybe an intimate dinner at home is the fiscally responsible thing to do.

If done properly, a meal at home easily rivals a night out. That said, the potential for disaster exists. Here, I want to provide a few tips to minimize the risks. First, I cannot stress enough the importance of not stressing. Anxiety sows the seeds of burnt standing rib roasts, overcooked vegetables, and exploding soufflés. It also kills the mood.

The best possible way to stay calm is to plan ahead. So, choose your recipes carefully and grocery shop accordingly. For inspiration, Behind the Burner's recipe section is full of sumptuous dishes from some of the country's best chefs. If I find myself at home this year, I'm starting with a spread of oysters and a cheese plate with truffle honey followed by Rabbit tenderloin with sage gnocchi and mustard cream. If we can consider ingesting another crumb after all of that, I'll serve Francois Payard's Charlie's Chocolate Pudding Cake for dessert. You can even use the website's deal section to save on Valentine's Day necessities like truffles, caviar, and chocolate. The second best way to stay calm is to drink. Buy a bottle of wine and relax (a caveat to this suggestion: don't drink too much or the potential for disaster rises again exponentially).

Whatever plans emerge on the 14th, whether I'm dancing to the hum of a jazz band at Tavern on the Green or snuggled at table in the low lighting of the Waverly Inn, I'll be content. Even if I do end up eating a burrito around the corner from my apartment, I'm at peace with it. New York's vast array of Valentine's Day activities provides a little something for everyone. And, if nothing else, it's got to better than the red sauce at Valentino's.

Cecilia Estreich

— Written by Cecilia Estreich

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