Truffles Worth the Hunt

November 27, 2008 4:03 pm

Nestled on the corner of quaint tree lined streets in Greenwich Village, Chef Joey Campanaro's tiny restaurant called The Little Owl is the perfect place to feature truffles because they both have an element of secrecy that we are about to expose...

Truffles are mysterious and often misunderstood. They aren't attractive, they look like small brown dirt formations from another planet; and they smell even worse--pungent, like stale gym socks due for a wash. How can truffles be considered the crowned king of gourmet foods? Your taste buds will give you the answer as soon as you indulge in a pasta, risotto, egg dish, or foie gras preparation accented with these miraculous wonders.

First you need to find them. Truffles are not easily accessible. They are only available in a few countries and they are found beneath the earth, hunted by specially trained dogs and pigs. Vincent Jeansaume from Sabatino Tartufi (see Featured Promotions), one of the largest truffle purveyors in the U.S., told me that some truffles hunters have lost fingers while extracting the treasure from the pigs who wanted to eat the food they worked so hard to sniff and dig out of the ground. Truffles are seasonal which means you can only enjoy white truffles in October and November and black truffles in the late autumn and winter, not to be confused with the black summer truffles that are enjoyed during the warm months. The rarity of the fungi and the pains people have to go through to find them creates a steep price point. Truffles can range from $1400-$2700 a pound. Savored by the rich and famous, casino owner Stanley Ho reportedly paid $330,000 for a single white truffle weighing just a little more than 3 pounds.

It takes a special place to feature something as rare and precious as truffles, which is why we asked Chef Campanaro to use them to make a special dish at his restaurant. Inspired by his Spanish wife, Paula, Chef Campanaro created an intimate setting with food so popular that it is nearly impossible to book a table. There are only 26 seats at The Little Owl. If you are fortunate enough to book a table, you are in for a unique culinary experience. But getting the reservation is only half the battle, to reach this destination you need to navigate the winding cobbles stone streets of Greenwich Village to find this hidden treasure.

Once inside, you will have a tough time choosing a dish from his menu of bold Mediterranean cuisine. However, for Behind the Burner Chef Campanaro made a special truffle risotto and even used truffles to top off a beautiful asparagus appetizer. A gasp filled the room when Vincent showed up with a box full of Sabatino truffles (see Featured Promotions). It wasn't the stench that caused the reaction; it was the large quantity that left everyone speechless. Chef Campanaro said that some cooks are scared to incorporate truffles in their food because they are so expensive. Fortunately, he wasn't afraid because the truffles made his dishes extra fabulous! The secret is out, truffles and The Little Owl make for a heavenly culinary experience.

Caroline Alexa McBride

The Little Owl
90 Bedford Street
New York, NY
212.741.4695