Todd and Eva's Beso Adds Shine to Tinseltown

January 2, 2009 1:17 pm

Todd and Eva's Beso Adds Shine to Tinseltown

$Behind the Burner: Todd and Eva\'s Beso Adds Shine to Tinseltown$

Heading home to my native Southern California for Christmas always gives me a healthy dose of sunshine as well as the chance to check out new restaurants in the City of Culinary Angels. When my childhood friend, Mary, asked me where I wanted to eat, I didn't hesitate to suggest Beso, a Nuevo Mexican collaboration spearheaded by renowned restaurateur Todd English and actress Eva Longoria Parker. We had heard mixed reviews, but I am a huge Todd English fan so we decided to give it a chance and form our own opinion.

Beso is located on the legendary Hollywood Boulevard. Although I'm a native Angeleno, I still grin every time my stilettos hit the Hollywood Walk of Fame--so much Tinseltown history! Hence, I was beaming when I approached the formidable doorman. His serious demeanor made me feel like I was back in New York, getting ready to hustle my way past the velvet rope. I'm easily over 6 feet tall in my Jil Sander heels, but I still had to look up at the giant while I assured him that I had a reservation before I inquired about parking in the loading zone where I had ditched my car. Definitely an ice breaker as we commiserated about being ripped off by valets and expensive parking tickets--a topic that all Angelenos can relate to.

Once inside, my jaw dropped at the massive size and beauty of the restaurant. I found Mary near the hostess counter, looking up at the ceiling, admiring the chandeliers. After exchanging hugs and compliments (I don't know how she walks in those 6 inch Dolce Gabbanas, but they made her legs look beyond fabulous), we were whisked to our table where we settled into our cushiony leather chairs and agreed that Beso gets an A plus for design. Mary pointed out the enormous branch infused floral arrangements and commented that she would incorporate something similar if she were to plan her wedding over. Her statement spoke volumes as her wedding was a perfectly executed affair to remember at the Biltmore Hotel complete with imported Russian and Persian performers. The two floor Beso is spacious, the dramatic open kitchen gives diners a peak as their dishes are artfully prepared, and by looking up to the second floor one can see the entrance to the red leather lounge that is connected to the restaurant, but run by promoters when not rented for private parties or being used by Todd and Eva.

We sipped our pinot grigio and studied the parchment paper menus. I ordered Eva's Tortilla Soup as an appetizer while Mary chose the Roasted Red and Yellow Beet Salad with goat cheese fundido and sherry walnut dressing. The presentation was impressive, my soup was in a large bowl with a smear of avocado leading from the edge of the bowl down into the food. The soup had a nice combination of spices, rich tomato and crunchy tortilla strips. Mary's salad was laid out beautifully, the beets were fresh and crisp and the goat cheese rich and decadent. For my entrée, I decided to play it safe and get a protein fix with the Grilled free-range Chicken that came with banana gnocchi. The chicken was perfect and the banana gnocchi was interesting. I had never consumed a banana in such a form. It had a sweetness to it that you wouldn't expect in a gnocchi. I ate a few pieces to offset the flavor of the chicken and spices. Mary had the 8 0z Petit Filet, which was properly cooked and accompanied with a diced tomato onion salsa with crispy pita chips mixed in. The crunch of the chips combined with the salsa and meat was an appropriate fit. Full from our meals and concerned about our excessive Christmas food consumption from the past few days, we made the unusual decision of skipping dessert. I've since learned that the desserts at Beso are amazing. Next time!

As Mary told me that she will come again and bring her husband, I glanced around the room to make some final conclusions about the vibe. Beso's decor is breathtaking, the food is fabulous and the crowd is very L.A. --an ethnic melting pot, young, hip and dressed casually. Unlike the suits in New York, the guys at Beso were in jeans, tight t-shirts to show off their toned bodies and tennis shoes. I laughed as I sipped my pinot and watched the animated guy with spiked hair at the next table. You never know, he might be on the big screen with Brad Pitt next month. As I once heard Bono point out during a U2 concert at Staples Center, "L.A. is the city where people make a living off of their dreams." The energy and pulsating music in Beso creates a positive atmosphere where all aspiring artists can feel at home. "Beso" translates to "kiss" in Spanish and after enjoying a delicious meal with my dearest friend, I happily blew a beso to the doorman on my way out to my car which was waiting for me safely in the loading zone.

Caroline Alexa McBride

Beso
6350 Hollywood Boulevard
Hollywood, California
323.467.7991