November 23, 2009 4:25 pm

Three Generations of Tequila at Toloache Mexican Bistro, New York City

Behind the Burner: Three Generations of Tequila at Toloache Mexican Bistro, New York City

For the record, I am not a tequila drinker. I admittedly veer towards wine in every situation, even when I should probably know better. So I was more than pleasantly surprised when I tasted the three tequilas of Tres Generaciones at Toloache Mexican Bistro last month. Guided by Jaime (pronounced HYE-may) Salas, the national tequila ambassador for Tres Generaciones, we were treated to a straight tequila tasting, plus three different cocktails served with each course of dinner. Before I get to the delicious results, some history.

Started in 1873 by Don Cenobio Sauza, Tres Generaciones is a family affair through and through. Don Cenobio has been called "the father of tequila," and his mission was to create a spirit that would rival others in the rest of the world. All of Tres Generaciones's tequila is made from 100% blue agave and each variation is triple distilled, giving it a smoother flavor and minimal burn.

Before dinner, Jaime walked us through a tasting of each of the three Tres Generaciones variations. The first, Plata, is the baby of the group. It is triple distilled, but not aged, and therefore has no contact with wood of any kind. The result is an incredibly smooth tequila, really beautiful. It has a very mellow smell of agave and a sort of flowery pepper. This one goes down easy, and unlike most everyone else, it was my favorite.

The second tequila was the Reposado, triple-distilled and aged in American white oak barrels for two to twelve months. You notice immediately the difference from the Plata – its slightly darker in color and more viscous. It smells of plantains and the taste has a spicy kick, hanging around longer than the Plata. It's still smooth, but this one has legs.

Lastly, we tasted the Anejo, the "crowning achievement" of the Tres Generaciones family. This variety, almost everyone's favorite (except mine), has a golden hue, and a smoky/vanilla smell on the nose. It's aged one to three years in white oak bourbon barrels, and you can tell. To me, this one smelled and tasted like bourbon, but I think everyone responded to its rich complexity.

The tequila was impressive, but the real standout of the evening was the cocktails. There wasn't a single one I didn't like and again, you're talking to a wine girl.

For our first course, paired with Taquitos de Cangrejo (Crab Tacos), we had the Granada Fizz, a beautifully pink cocktail of the Plata tequila, lime, fresh pomegranate and champagne. It was delicious.

Next up, paired with a wonderful duck leg topped with a fig mole, was the Bandera. A wonderfully inventive cocktail, it included the Reposado tequila, fresh mint leaves, lime, and beet puree. Yes, you heard that right – a puree of beets. Not only did the beets give it a gorgeous ruby color, but the drink was both delicious and refreshing. Like a beet mojito! I know it sounds gross, but it was anything but.

Lastly, with a dessert of milk crepes and caramel sauce, was the Xochitl Margarita. This was a simple, but beautiful, cocktail made with the Anjeo, lime, agave nectar and some citrus. It was completely delicious, and a fantastic way to end the evening with a clean, happy palate.

Between courses my husband and I talked with Jaime about the perception of tequila as a drink to take as a shot or to get completely wasted on. I was so thrilled to have this rich and complex spirit explained to me, and I walked away with a new appreciation for the product and the history.

It seems that, sometimes, three is the magic number. Three generations, three tequilas, all distilled three times. I'll drink to that.

Toloache Mexican Bistro
251 W 50th Street
New York, NY 10019
212.581.1818

— Written by Kristy Kershaw

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