December 26, 2008 6:18 pm

The Curse of Avenida

Behind the Burner: The Curse of Avenida

Avenida is not an ancient hex created by a witch doctor in the jungle of South America. It's a quaint Mexican place on Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich, Connecticut. Avenida opened about a year ago, and was all the rage in the area. The plethora of patrons created hardly enough space to even enter through the restaurant doors. However, the Avenida of the past, despite the number of guests, had cuisine that was less than thrilling or appetizing. With the reopening of Avenida, I hoped this time the food would live up to the crowds it created in the past.

Returning to Avenida, I experienced the same bold décor reminiscent of southern Miami style with a bright orange tin ceiling offset by warming, dark furniture. Tile walls reflected the bath of light from the exposed bulbs hanging from the ceiling. The atmosphere of Avenida was just how I remembered, except for one tiny detail; there were hardly any people! Hopefully the food didn't follow suit.

I started with the Guacamole and homemade tortilla chips, as it was the best dish in the past. One taste and I began to worry. It was missing the citrus flavor that once worked so delightfully, but I decided to move on and not write Avenida off yet. Fortunately, I didn't because the Mahi Mahi tacos with red cabbage slaw and chipotle aioli were delicious! The fish, albeit a bit soggy, had a fiery mix of spices. I also sampled the Chicken quesadilla with cilantro crema and pico de gallo, which is always a safe bet at any Mexican restaurant. For the perfect end of the evening, I enjoyed some flan, which was both creamy and fruity. The best dessert by far was the churros, long fried dough dipped in chocolate. A wave of nostalgia came over me with each bite being that I delighted in my fair share of churros while spending time in Punta Del Este, Uruguay. One taste returned me to South America and sunlight.

Although the people were scarce that evening, the food surpassed the Avenida of the past immeasurably. Which is better, big crowds or big food? Perhaps the curse of Avenida will be lifted when Greenwich looks over the restaurant's past food follies, and this bold Mexican restaurant will have the best of both worlds. You may not go to Avenida for the bustling crowd, the mediocre margaritas, or even the food, but you should at least go to experience the nighclub-like restrooms. Walk in, shut the door, and you'll understand.

Divya Gugnani

Avenida
339 Greenwich Ave
Greenwich, CT 06830
203.622.1400

— Written by Divya Gugnani

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