Tanuki Tavern Opens Its Doors

November 10, 2009 11:18 pm

Debuting this fall in the heart of the Meatpacking District, Tanuki Tavern is a playfully hip and seriously tasty Japanese gastropub and sushi bar. The multi-level, indoor-outdoor restaurant was inspired by the traditional Japanese izakaya—a pub serving classic Japanese snacks, small plates and noodles. However, unlike most izakayas, TT also offers some beautifully tasty sashimi and sushi rolls.

Connected to the Hotel Gansevoort, Tanuki Tavern is a welcome replacement for Ono, the previous restaurant tenant. Ultimately, it will also connect to Provocateur, a half-nightclub, half café opening next-door in mid-December. My partner in crime and I began at Tanuki's two-story bar, which offers cocktails, craft beers and sakes. Manned by a friendly bartender, the bar is accented by a cascading collection of white lanterns. To our right, floating pillar candles illuminated the intimate dining room and sushi bar. To our left, doors opened onto the outdoor patio. We each gave two thumbs up to our fried chicken livers starter with ponzu, miso and chili dip, which was chicly presented and full of flavor.

For the main event, we climbed the steps to the restaurant's Hana (flower) Loft, and found ourselves surrounded by floral Murakami-esque wallpaper, enjoying an evening-time view of the cobblestone streets below. Our server was extremely knowledgeable and friendly, and started us out with excellent sake recommendations, interestingly categorizing each sake's flavor as either masculine or feminine.

The food that followed was, in a word, fantastic. Chef de Cuisuine Kazu Hashimoto, who previously worked at Megu and Bouley, heads Tanuki Tavern's kitchen. Standouts: The crispy Kurobuta pork belly served with baby bok choy and shiitake mushrooms in mirin-soy broth was perfection. The amazing smokey roll—reminiscent of a board game playing piece —involved portions of smoked tuna, smoked salmon, BBQ eel, smoked caviar, cucumber and cream cheese in a nori pinwheel wrap. The surf and turf roll featured poached Maine lobster wrapped in wagyu beef carpaccio, and was just as good as it sounds. My favorite part of the night, however, was the simplest: the sashimi was, without a doubt, melt-in-your-mouth-worthy.

A standout newcomer is always welcome. And this approachable addition to the heart of hip Manhattan seamlessly marries high-end dining with a cool, casual atmosphere.

Tanuki Tavern at Hotel Gansevoort
18 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10014
212.660.6766