November 1, 2009 6:50 pm

Scalino Restaurant: Park Slope's Quaint Italian Spot Steps Up to the Plate

Strolling down 7th Avenue in Park Slope, Brooklyn, my friend and I were on a mission to find something different than our typical Thai restaurant. After a stressful day at work, I was in the mood for a good bottle of wine and a comforting meal. We stopped in front of Scalino (meaning step in Italian), a small, well-lit restaurant with a corner spot, browsed the menu, and decided to give it a try.

Seated at a tiny table near the window, I was brought back to the streets of Florence as I eyed the photographs of Italian piazzas and quaint, cobblestone streets hanging from the brick wall. Scalino with its warm colors reminded me of the rustic trattoria that I had spent many a night at while living in Italy. I could only hope that the food was as authentic as the décor.

Scalino has a wine selection about as small as their tables, so my friend and I decided to get the best wine on the menu. (The price difference was a mere $4.) A bit indecisive, we asked the owner what he recommended. From there, glass after glass came to our table. After tasting the majority of reds on the menu, we settled on the blend from Argentina, although the 2007 Terredora di Paolo Aglianico came in a close second. Made from a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Pinot Noir, the wine was light and smooth with hints of berries. Overall it was the best choice for a lover of "big" wines at a restaurant sans full-bodied vino.

With cuisine, simplicity can be just as enjoyable as the most complex combination of ingredients, so we chose the house antipasto, a plate of prosciutto, salami, Parmesan and green olives. Unfortunately, our traditional Italian starter was doused in olive oil, which took away from the sheer flavor of the dish itself. For our entrees, we ordered the Roasted Pork Shoulder and Pollo Milanese. The Roasted Pork Shoulder was served with steamed spinach and white beans. Despite the tenderness of the pork, the sauce was lackluster, more like gravy and overpowering. The Pollo Milanese was by far the shining star of the evening. Served under a lightly dressed bed of arugula, red and green leaf lettuce and other spring greens with ripe, red cherry tomatoes, the cutlet was perfectly breaded, thinly sliced and tender. The healthy portion of chicken was too much to finish, so dessert was definitely out of the question.

Although there were some hits and misses, Scalino has definitely done something right after being in business for three years in the thick of the Brooklyn restaurant scene. Matteo, the owner, treats you like you're a regular the first time you walk in the door. With Scalino's attentive service, diverse menu, and ample list of specials, this spot gives the customer something to come back to.

Scalino
347 7th Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11215

— Written by Christina Licata

< PREVIOUS ENTRY NEXT ENTRY >

Share This >

Login to comment