Riesling: A "Gilty" Pleasure

April 16, 2009 3:46 pm

$Behind the Burner: Riesling: A \$

After a 12 hour day at Behind the Burner and a canceled dinner appointment, I found myself in my Fifth Avenue office all dressed up but with no where to go. Frantically, I texted the most outgoing New Yorkers in my berry. Alas, my friend invited me to a fabulous party on 57th street but not until 10... Do Italians ever go out early?

To pass the time I wandered over to Gilt to see my friend Patrick Cappiello, an amazing sommelier with genuine enthusiasm and vast knowledge. I knew he would kindly supply my Riesling obsession with his exceptional favorites and a tutorial to accompany the wine. I swept through the lobby of the Palace Hotel and arrived at the Gilt bar packed with men in suits, a few couples and two single girls. The odds were good for me! After taking a seat next to some businessmen from Europe, I texted my girlfriends to meet me and assured Patrick that I'm not a loner.

Focused on the wine, Patrick enthusiastically showed me another one of his favorite German Rieslings. This one made by Donnhoff, one of the premiere producers, from the Brucke vineyard in Oberhauser. The 2004 vintage is the perfect Riesling Spatlese. It has the classic stone fruit quality, you can taste the apricot, heavy mineral aromatics, and the white flower tones. By the time my friends arrived, I was drifting in Riesling Heaven and didn't realize that they were there. But the rest of the patrons certainly noticed the two beauties that joined me as we instantly became the center of attention. Quickly jolted out of my haze and fielding questions from potential new suitors, I was reminded that many men find three young women with long hair, stilettos and sexy dresses extremely alluring.

Not to lose sight of my Riesling needs, Patrick made me refocus when he suggested comparing the Donnhoff selection to Zilliken's 2006 Reisling Kabinett from Saarburger Rausch. It was very different--petrol accents, less sweet, a little dry, but still delicious. It was a difficult decision, but in the end, I decided that the Donnhoff was my favorite because I am partial to sweet flavors.

By the end of the night, more women filled the room, the secret was out and I no longer felt like I was crashing an adult fraternity party. My friends and I were ready to dance and headed Downtown. I could still taste the amazing Riesling as I moved to the music--the perfect way to unwind after a long day.

Gilt Restaurant and Bar
455 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10022
(212) 891-8100

Caroline Alexa McBride