Ramped Up!

May 24, 2009 12:32 pm

While booking a plane ticket in the midst of this past winter, I had little in mind other than to leave New York for a more tropical, sunnier locale. When my computer's cursor hovered over the icon indicating a two-week trip to Nicaragua set to depart chilly, rainy New York on April 27th and returning on May 11th, little went through my head other than to click the mouse, confirm the reservation and look forward to sun, beaches and few, if any, tourists.

But, as the Ides of March came and went and Daffodils began to bloom in early April, I began to see signs of a terrible logistical error on my part. My miscalculation had nothing to do with a needed break from the grind of New York City or my desire to visit a tropical destination, which still remains off the beaten path. My slip-up in choosing those dates had everything to do with ramps. Yes, ramps — those pungent, leafy, onion-like greens that grace farmer's markets on the eastern side of the country for about three weeks a year.

You see, the temperamental arrival of ramps usually occurs around mid-April, signifying the onslaught of spring from Appalachia to Canada, and the true beginning of the Greenmarket season here in New York. Ramps come and go quicker than the mention of a new David Chang restaurant opening in the East Village, which is to say very quick indeed. And, stupid me: I was about to miss one of my favorites, and all for some beach time in some deserted Central American country.

After a long plane ride back, my first order of business was not a visit to the grocery store for coffee, the laundromat or the post office, but to head straight to the Greenmarket in Union Square. My ramp obsession was nearing red alert status. To boot, I was completely in the dark as to whether they would still be in season.

Luckily for me, vendors displayed their bounty with pride, but with a small caveat — a king's ransom. ramps aren't cheap — at least not here in New York. But, if carefully selected, they are worth every penny. The small thin bulbs are more desirable than the thick rounder ones, which usually indicate the end of the season.

Ramps are part of the onion family. They have lush, silky green leaves that taper down into a warm purplish hue, ending with a white bulb similar to a scallion. With an earthy and slightly sweet flavor, ramps have the understated ability to become the centerpiece of a dish rather than the intended accoutrement. So, head warning: if you want your spring salmon or halibut to shine on its own, be careful when using them as your chosen sidekick.

Versatility abounds with these wayward travelers. Ramps are heavenly when grilled or sautéed with a healthy dose of sea salt and course pepper. They work alongside gamey meats or rich seafood, like lobster or salmon. However, my favorite preparation is pickling. The benefits of pickling are twofold: longevity and flexibility. They can spice up any salad, provide the necessary acidic element to mains and are perfect on a sandwich with the myriad varieties of pork and a little mustard.

This year's season might be ending any day now. And, if you are absentminded like me, make sure to mark your calendar for mid-April 2010, in order to secure a delicious treat for almost any spring recipe. Ramps are well worth the wait — not in gold, of course. I'd be a fool to say that, but they might be a close second.

—Chris Forbes