James on 8th Officially Puts Philly on My Foodie Map (Dover Sole Excluded)

June 4, 2009 5:47 pm

James on 8th Officially Puts Philly on My Foodie Map (Dover Sole Excluded)

Culinary expertise does exist outside Manhattan. Yes, I know it's hard to believe; there are restaurants that are executing on all cylinders outside the capital of the world. On a recent visit to Philadelphia, a great restaurant off the not-so-great commercial strip of South Street wowed me to great heights. James, located at 824 South 8th Street, and operated by husband and wife team Jim and Kristina Burke is no stranger to accolades. Jim Burke received the nod as one of Food & Wine's best new American chefs in 2008.

James sits in the Bella Vista neighborhood a few blocks off of bustling South Street. It rests on a small neighborhood street nestled superbly in a quiet residential area. Windows are set high, so it is hard to know what to expect until you enter through the front door. But once ushered in, the atmosphere is clean and inviting, with rich earth tones, warm greens and candlelight illuminating from various nooks and crannies. Sleek but comforting. Unfortunately, the bar, which serves as an abbreviated lounge offers only a limited menu version of the main dining area. Bar seating is preferred in my opinion, but not at the cost of a smaller menu.

After opting for the dining room we were led to a table off of the main room into a small room with two smaller tables and a larger one seated for seven. Teardrop chandeliers glistened in the early evening sun and soft lounge music drifted from the speaker over the doorway, creating a cozy atmosphere. Primitive renderings of trees bearing fruit adorn the walls. The room was charming, albeit a bit separated from the main action.

The attentive, pleasant staff immediately descended upon the table and set out to explain the philosophy of the restaurant. The Italian-inspired menu, as described, is market driven with a strong emphasis on locality and seasonality. Portions are slightly smaller and therefore a mid-course was recommended. The wine list, stressing smaller vineyards, could use a little bulking up. We were pleased with our selection of Elk Cove Pinot Gris, from Oregon, but were hard-pressed to find anything from Italy or France in the same price range.

But, with a chef-driven restaurant the focus is, or course, on the food. Our server graciously answered each and every question we threw her way, but we had a hard time deciding which item(s) to order. The sweetbreads with pickled radishes and garlic broth looked inviting, as did the Kampachi Sashimi with Grapefruit Confit. However, for our first course we opted for a James' deconstructed version of Borscht and poached Snake River Salmon with Artichokes and Summer Truffles.

We were surprised when our first course was placed in front of us. The borscht, poured tableside, didn't appear to be borscht, at all. What we received was a shallow bowl with roasted baby yellow and red beets slivers of braised oxtail and dollops of whipped sorrel. An oxtail consommé was delicately poured over these ingredients. The result was exquisite. The unctuous oxtail meat and rich consommé were offset expertly with the whipped sorrel. Delightful. The salmon wasn't as memorable, but still solid. Shaved summer truffles and braised artichoke hearts paired nicely with the rich texture of the fatty salmon.

The middle course was the highlight of the evening. The menu at James follows the Italian model, offering house made pasta as a mid-course. All of the selections looked desirable, but we opted for the Tagliatelle with Duck Ragu, Orange Zest and Shaved Chocolate. The texture of the pasta melted in our mouths, and coupled with the duck, orange and chocolate, a succession of undulating flavors. Alone, this dish is worth the trip to James.

For our main course we opted for Dover Sole in Potato Nest and Grass Fed Veal Loin with Morels and Fava Beans. The veal was prepared perfectly, but seemed uninspired. Maybe we were still reeling from the borscht and tagliatelle that led us to this conclusion. But, it is really hard to go wrong with veal, morels and fava beans together. To James' credit however, the veal had a rich, exquisite flavor.

The big disappointment came with the sole. The sole arrived wrapped in a thinly cut potato ribbon, so at first glance it resembled the shape of a Central American taco, meaning completely enclosed instead of open-faced. Placed alongside the sole was the yolk of an egg, pickled onion and a shallot confit. We were told to break the yolk and use it as the sauce. The flavor was bland and the deconstructed approach seemed a little contrived.

All in all the experience was quite pleasant. We were unable to experience dessert, but hear that the salty caramel semifreddo is superb. James is riding the current sustainable, local agriculture wave with ease and flair, even if outside the capital of the world.

—Chris Forbes

James
824 S. 8th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19147
215-629-4980
www.jameson8th.com