In Praise of Pera

December 29, 2008 11:40 am

One snowy night, I planned to meet a childhood friend for dinner. I hadn't seen her in weeks because work has been so hectic. But a little snow wouldn't make me cancel on her. I had originally suggested trekking down to the West Village to eat at Braeburn, but the weather had me wondering where I could get a good meal within a few blocks of my office. I immediately thought of Pera. I walked less than two blocks and left the cold behind as I stepped into the warm, earthy and exotic setting of this top Turkish brasserie, with a touch of Eastern elegance from the onyx and alabaster panels as well as the zebrawood bar. It was gorgeous. I had no idea this place was selected a "Top 5 Newcomer" by Zagat Survey New York City 2008.

When I got there, my friend was already sitting there, sipping a glass of dry red wine--a Kavaklidere blended with the Turkish grapes Okuzgozu and Bogazkere.

While we were catching up, the owner, one of my classmates in business school, came by and said, "Hello." He gave us the history of the restaurant and their quest to find just the right ingredients and purveyors to replicate the tastes of Turkey and the surrounding regions. It was all worth the effort; we enjoyed the fruits of his labor in the array of appetizers that awaited us.

In my travels to Turkey, I've always been impressed by the flavors of the meats. They are vibrant, sharp and savory just like the buzzing city of Istanbul itself. Yet, they're hugely comforting at the same time. My past experiences with Turkish cuisine in NYC have paled in comparison to this one. Yet at Pera, I have now found my Mediterranean home away from home. It is the perfect place to munch on meze, or eastern mediterranean finger foods. My friend and I tried a wide range of them, such as the dates stuffed with feta cheese and wrapped in pastirma, a sultry, spiced meat cured with cumin and paprika. Each bite was a true delight!

The sea bass was almost like ceviche, but cloaked in a lemon-dill marinade that harked back to the east. The fried artichoke hearts, sprinkled with chickpea flour, were my favorite. Almost an entire artichoke goes to waste for someone to enjoy its tender heart, but its lemony twist and the creamy paprika dipping sauce served on the side make it well worth the sacrifice.

The yogurt cacik, a smooth, chilled cucumber dip, was the perfect accompaniment to the crispy, cheese-filled phyllo rolls. The beef and bulghur tartar was both aesthetically and gastronomically gratifying: the buttery bibb lettuce mellowed the piquant and tangy flavors of the tender, minced steak. Of course, I can't forget the roasted whipped eggplant drizzled with fruity olive oil and served with oven-fresh lavash, a Turkish type of flatbread. Some of the other appetizers included the hand-ground lamb "adana" (named after the fourth largest city in Turkey), juicy lamb on a skewer served with more of their fresh, delicious flatbread.

After these heavy snacks, we were not ready to leave without a sweet treat, which turned into several sweet treats and lots of extra minutes on the treadmill the next day. Dessert began with the Kadaifi Kunefe, a shredded wheat pastry with a rich, molten cheese interior and a honey syrup on top. I had known better, I would have skipped the pear dessert (too sweet, mushy and gelatinous), but the warm chocolate cake was one of the best I've had in a long time. Served with a side of warm cocoa sauce to drizzle on top, it was intense, rich and divine. Each bite warmed my soul. I could have sat there all night in my cozy chocolate bliss watching the snowflakes fall outside the window. But I didn't need to worry--on my way home, the good food, good wine and good memories would keep me warm.

Divya Gugnani

Braeburn Restaurant is located on 117 Perry Street in the West Village (at the corner of Greenwich Street and Perry Street)