July 18, 2009 6:33 pm

Henrietta's Table: Honest-to-Goodness Culinary in Cambridge, Massachusetts

You know when you bite into a dish and something just tastes right? Maybe the tomatoes are cooked so that some juice still squirts out, or a mushroom is sautéed at just the perfect temperature for the flavor to burst. The right combinations inspire you to appreciate the smells, tastes, sights and even sounds of your food. This is how I felt eating at Henrietta's Table at The Charles Hotel, in the trendy Harvard Square area of Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Chef Peter Davis is a true New England classic. He has worked tirelessly since 1995 to make Henrietta's Table an "honest-to-goodness New England" culinary experience which also incorporates locally sourced ingredients. Together with his team of surprisingly cheerful servers and Chef de Cuisine Sean Lizotte, Peter Davis has created a warm and rustic dining experience in the heart of Cambridge, Massachusetts. Davis believes deeply in connecting people to the land from which our food is produced. So much that Henrietta's Table also sponsors The Farm School and hosts The Big Pig Gig annually to raise money for children's programs in farming. He also has a cook book, Fresh and Honest, which details his many farm fresh culinary secrets.

How does all this translate at the dinner table? The passion behind local fresh farming and cooking is apparent in every dish. My friend Missy joined me for dinner at Henrietta's Table and we had a great time. We began our meal with two picks from the restaurant's New England Cheese Menu. I went with the Bridgid Abbey from Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut. A semi-soft cow's milk, it was rich without being overpowering and went wonderfully with the fresh raspberries provided to us. My friend, Missy, went with the Cave Aged Beer Cheddar from Grafton Village Cheese Co, in Vermont. The cheddar was wonderfully sharp, crumbly and moist and when mixed with a dried apricot or spicy walnut, made for the perfect combination of flavors.

Of course, we needed something with which to wash all this good cheese down. I went with the "Grapefruit Cooler." It was gin, grapefruit juice, club soda and fresh basil. The blend made for a crisp summer drink. I thought it was quite creative to put basil in a drink as well. They have some excellent classics to choose from, but like everything else their drink's menu is seasonal so be ready for something you haven't seen before. My friend took the recommendation of our helpful server, Anne, and tried the Chenin Blanc — Viognier, Pine Ridge Napa Valley. I later made the switch to this type of wine and found it to be a great compliment to the fresh vegetables and light dishes on the menu.

Although it was a tough decision, for my starter I went with the Maine Rock Crab Cake. The dish was nicely presented and came accompanied with a home made tarter sauce that was light with generous sized pickles, and an almost too farm-fresh native vegetable slaw. With this slaw, mostly, I just tasted radishes. But the generous portion of crab meat, which came with chunks of asparagus and had a light mustard tang, helped add some kick to dish. My friend went with the iceberg lettuce and "creamy Massachusetts blue cheese dressing." The ingredients were definitely farm fresh, with vibrant red tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, and sturdy lettuce. The dressing was milder than either one of us was expecting, but perhaps after our flavorful cheese plate we were expecting a stronger Stilton than the recipe intended.

At this point, the restaurant was fully abuzz. Nearly every table was full in the large open dinning room, and this was a Tuesday! Clearly the word is out that Henrietta's Table offers good consistent food. The room is decorated like a cozy country house and there is plenty of outside seating in the summer so I can only imagine what it is like on a hot summer day.

Feeling quite full already, my eyes burgeoned when our main courses appeared. I tried something new this time. I went with the Anson Mills Organic Grit Cake with Vermont chevre, ragout of mushrooms and caramelized onions. My goodness, did these mushrooms pop. The mushrooms were mixed with fresh peas, beans and tossed in a white wine butter sauce. The tastes oozed out of the dish, and the grit cake and goat cheese allowed a welcomed mild mix with the vibrant, rich flavors of the vegetables.

My friend chose one of the specials, Seared Red Snapper. Arriving from the semi-open kitchen came a whopping portion of fish on top of wilted pea greens, sautéed wine cap mushrooms, roasted garlic and grilled Siena Farms scallion beurre blanc. The red snapper was a hit, with flakey meat and a wonderfully flavorful sauce.

Just when we thought that not another inch of food could be digested, out came the dessert menus. How could we skip it? Missy went with the chilled lemon soufflé with fresh berry compote, and I had the Native Strawberry Shortcake. Both dishes were deceptively light tasting. For me, the Shortcake tasted amazing when accompanied with a warm cup of Jim's Organic decaf coffee.

We left with are stomachs full, our appetites satiated, and our spirits high. The friendly environment at Henrietta's Table is worth visiting, and the farm fresh foods will leave you wanting to return.

—Nancy W. Gleason

Henrietta's Table
One Bennett Street
Cambridge, MA 02138
617.661.5005
www.henriettastable.com

— Written by Nancy W. Gleason

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