Go to Corsino for Vino

November 12, 2009 2:22 pm

Goodbye Frederick's downtown, hello Corsino. Warmly greeted by the attentive staff and enamored with the cozy ambiance my first visit to Corsino was off to a good start. Waiting at the bar for a friend stuck in traffic I had the chance to sample a few of the wines from the Italian wine list. Montepulciano yes, Valpolicella no (it was overwhelming on my palate). I reviewed the enticing choices for starters, with lots of my favorites being featured: an array of crostinis, roasted beets with yogurt and pistachio, roasted butternut squash with pomegranate, celery root and guanciale, baked ricotta with grilled ciabatta and many more.

I was eager to sample Chef Steve Connaughton's skills since I last tasted his food at Bar Milano. We settled on a appetizers and got busy noshing. The overall verdict for our first course was a strong B+. The options were alluring from an ingredient perspective but a lack of depth in the flavor combinations. The roasted butternut squash with pomegranate, celery root and guanciale was mediocre at best and essentially lacked flavor and seasoning. We followed with fussily with sausage and tomato (tasty but nothing to write home about) and braised heritage pork with fennel and onions. I haven't met a pig I haven't liked but this one only provided me with moderate satisfaction. The meat was tender and well cooked but again, like the theme of the evening, it lacked bold flavors and seasoning. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the Brussels sprouts had enough fresh black pepper in them to season the rest of our meal.

Hoping that dessert with give us the WOW factor we were waiting for, we ordered the plum crostata and pumpkin ice cream. Like its predecessors, these plates were good, not great. I've always liked 'Inoteca so I had great expectations for Jason and Joe Denton's opening of Corsino. Sadly, we enjoyed the ambiance, wine and service more than we liked the food. A meal at Corsino teased our taste buds and it took every ounce of willpower not to visit Artichoke for a quick slice on the way home.

Corsino
637 Hudson Street (at Horatio St)
West Village
New York, NY 10014
212.242.3093

Artichoke Basille's Pizza & Brewery
328 E 14th Street (b/w 1st Ave & 2nd Ave)
New York, NY 10003
212.228.2004