Eating Easy at Boston's Marliave Restaurant

February 16, 2009 8:35 pm

Eating Easy at Boston's Marliave Restaurant

$Behind the Burner: Eating Easy at Boston\'s Marliave Restaurant$

In this economy, eating out for lunch is a real treat. One Monday, not wanting to waste the opportunity, my aunt and I chose Marliave Restaurant in Boston's financial district for a catch-up lunch. Although the surrounding construction site detracts from the outer aesthetics, the inside is authentic and plays well off the old French and new American menu. Under the direction of Grotto Restaurant owner Scott Herrit, Marliave, which originally graced the same location in the 1800s, was reborn.

At first, I was overwhelmed by the different levels of dining inside the restaurant. Essentially, they offer two different dining experiences with different menus. On the top floor, the fine dining or "continental cuisine" area consists of modern chairs, sunlight windows and a contemporary atmosphere. Downstairs is more appropriate for lunch; it boasts a bootlegging theme as well as some of the original French menu items from the location's historical beginnings: old-fashioned tin ceilings and walls coupled with the original tiled floors from when the restaurant was first opened in 1885. The cozy atmosphere is perfect for the hustle and bustle of a busy lunch crowd. We decided to go downstairs.

I will definitely return to sample some of their creative drink concoctions, but for lunch, it was chamomile tea for me. That said, I should tell you that they have a speakeasy-themed drinks menu including a pitcher of martinis called the FDR, which they serve in honor of prohibition's end. They also boast having a Kold-Draft ice machine, which creates giant ice cubes from distilled water that melts more slowly, leaving the punch in your beverage intact. Alas, I will need to return to try this out.

I was thankful for the tea as I poured over the menu. As usual, I was unable to decide. The menu is original, yet I recognized most everything. For example, they had a grilled ham and gruyère cheese sandwich, but titled it "Mr. Marliave." They also have a Croque Madame with the name "Mrs. Marliave." More modern twists on traditional fare include fois gras sliders, duck meatballs and wonderful raw bar options such as oysters, clams and caviar.

I wanted something a little more substantial, so I chose the farm-raised mussels in a garlic sauce with roasted tomatoes and white wine. The mussels were the perfect consistency and the sauce was light and tangy; warm with a lovely texture. The portion size was just right as well, as I had plenty of room for my main course once I soaked up the last bit of broth. Meanwhile, people started to stream into the restaurant. I was relieved we arrived before the main lunch crowd. I would recommend dinner reservations.

Feeling healthy and anti-carb, I passed up the tempting pizza option and went with the trout dish for my main course. This took a lot of deliberation with my aunt and our helpful server. In the end, I decided on two fillets of trout sandwiched with spinach, jumbo shrimp and tomatoes. The chef certainly impressed me; he accommodated me by seasoning and cooking the fish to a slight crisp—just the way I wanted it. The presentation and taste were well worth the $18.

My aunt went with homemade fettuccini pasta with lobster, spinach and tomatoes in a light cream sauce. It was lighter and more aromatic than I expected, with large chunks of Boston lobster abound. With no room in our stomachs, we decided to forgo dessert. Overall, we enjoyed a warm, comforting lunch on a cold winter Monday. I will definitely return!

Marliave is located at 10 Bosworth St., Boston, MA 02108. Call (617) 422-0004 for more details.

Nancy W. Gleason